Varză à la Cluj

Before you start

• Wring out the sauerkraut.

  American sauerkraut is aggressively acidic and wet. Rinse it in a fine-mesh strainer under cold water, then use your hands to squeeze out as much moisture as physically possible. You want the cabbage dry so it can fry and caramelize in the pan, rather than steaming in its own juices.

• Respect the parboil.

  Rice acts as a sponge. If you add it to the casserole raw, it will drink all the moisture from the pork and stay crunchy. If you add it fully cooked, it will turn to mush in the oven. A six-minute parboil is the golden rule.

Ingredients

• bagged or jarred sauerkraut32 oz
• neutral oil2 tbsp
• caraway seeds1 tsp
• dried thyme1 tsp
• black pepper1 tsp
• long-grain white rice1/2 cup
• thick-cut bacon4 strips
• yellow onion1 large
• ground pork1 1/2 lb
• sweet Hungarian paprika1 tbsp
• tomato paste1 tbsp
• kosher salt1 tsp
• tomato sauce1/2 cup
• full-fat Mexican crema1 cup

Method

1. 01

   Caramelize the squeezed sauerkraut with aromatics.

   Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium. Bloom the caraway seeds for 30 seconds until fragrant, then add the completely dry sauerkraut, thyme, and black pepper. Cook until the cabbage softens and takes on a slight golden hue, about 10 to 12 minutes, then transfer to a bowl and set aside.

2. 02

   Parboil the rice to prevent a dry casserole.

   Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Boil the rice for exactly 6 minutes, then drain in a sieve and immediately rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. It should have a firm bite in the center.

3. 03

   Render the bacon and brown the pork.

   Wipe out the large skillet, return it to medium heat, and render the diced bacon until crispy. Sweat the diced onions in the bacon fat until translucent. Add the ground pork, cooking and breaking it apart until it loses its pink color.

4. 04

   Build the savory meat base.

   Stir the sweet paprika, tomato paste, and salt into the pork, cooking for 1 minute to toast the spices. Pour in the tomato sauce and simmer for 3 minutes to marry the flavors. Remove from the heat and fold the parboiled rice directly into the meat mixture.

5. 05

   Layer the cabbage and meat in a baking dish.

   Preheat your oven to 375°F and lightly grease a 9x13-inch baking dish. Spread one-third of the sautéed cabbage across the bottom. Top with half the meat and rice mixture, pressing it into an even layer. Repeat with another third of the cabbage, the remaining meat, and finish with the final third of the cabbage to protect the meat from drying out.

6. 06

   Smother with crema and bake.

   Spread the Mexican crema evenly over the top layer of cabbage. Bake uncovered on the middle rack for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the edges are bubbling and the cream has formed a beautiful, golden-brown gratin. Let the casserole rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Notes

• Protect the meat.

  The top layer of the casserole must always be cabbage. This shields the rice and pork from the oven's dry heat and keeps everything moist.

• Mexican crema over American sour cream.

  Standard American sour cream often lacks the richness of traditional Romanian smântână and can curdle or separate when baked. Full-fat Mexican crema bakes beautifully and mimics the authentic dairy perfectly. If you must use sour cream, whisk it with two tablespoons of heavy cream first.