Zucchini Nbushee
ズッキーニのンブシー·(zukkīni no nbushī)
The American Uchinanchu Pantry (Foundations)
If you ask an Okinawan grandmother what tastes like summer, she won't point you to a fast, fiery stir-fry. She’ll point you to a slow, bubbling pot of Nbushee. Traditionally made with young sponge gourd, this technique relies on a culinary sleight of hand: coaxing a vegetable to surrender its own sweet juices to build a rich, stew-like base. Fresh loofah is virtually a myth in American supermarkets, but zucchini steps in flawlessly, carrying the exact same moisture profile and breaking down into a meltingly soft texture. Anchored by the undeniable, post-war nostalgia of Spam and jagged tears of tofu that drink up the savory miso, this is honest, unpretentious island comfort meant to be poured heavily over hot rice.
Before you start
Prep the tofu the grandmother way.
Wrap the drained tofu block in a paper towel and microwave for 2 minutes to mimic the dense texture of Okinawan island tofu. Never use a knife; tear it into bite-sized chunks with your hands so the jagged edges can soak up the miso broth.
Peel the zucchini in zebra stripes.
Use a vegetable peeler to peel the skin in alternating stripes before slicing. This gives the sauce a path to penetrate while leaving enough skin to keep the vegetable from turning into total mush.
Ingredients
- zucchini2 med
- Spam6 oz
- extra firm tofu14 oz
- neutral oil1 tbsp
- awase miso3 tbsp
- sugar1 tbsp
- mirin1 tbsp
- katsuo dashi or water1/4 cup
- katsuobushi1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Mix the miso sauce.
In a small bowl, whisk together the awase miso, sugar, mirin, and dashi until completely smooth.
- 02
Render the pork fat.
Place a large skillet or wok over medium heat. Add the neutral oil and the Spam, sautéing for 3 to 4 minutes until the fat begins to render and the edges turn slightly crisp and golden brown.
- 03
Coax out the natural juices.
Add the zucchini rounds to the skillet, tossing them in the rendered pork fat for about 2 minutes until slightly softened. Pour the prepared miso sauce over the top, stir gently, then turn the heat down to medium-low and cover the pan for 3 minutes to force the zucchini to release its do-jiru.
- 04
Simmer and thicken the stew.
Uncover the pan and nestle the torn tofu pieces down into the bubbling liquid. Leave the pan uncovered and let it gently simmer for another 4 to 5 minutes until the zucchini reaches a meltingly soft texture and the liquid naturally reduces into a rich stew.
- 05
Finish with a hit of smoke and umami.
Turn off the heat entirely and fold half of the katsuobushi directly into the pan. Transfer the stew to a serving dish, sprinkle the remaining katsuobushi over the top, and serve immediately with hot steamed rice.
Notes
Embrace the Spam.
While pre-war Okinawa relied on boiling blocks of skin-on pork belly for hours to render fat and create broth, post-war realities made canned luncheon meat an indisputably authentic staple. It provides the exact sodium and fat profile needed in a fraction of the time.
Trust the do-jiru.
Nbushee is an exercise in patience. Resist the urge to add extra water or thickeners. The magic relies entirely on waiting for the vegetable to release its own water to combine with the rendered fat and fermented soybean paste.
From Cook Okinawan in America.