Zeytinyağlı Barbunya
(zayt-in-yah-luh bar-boon-yah)
Zeytinyağlılar (The Olive Oil Cooling Rack)
If you grew up in a Turkish household, the sight of a shallow pot resting on the back of the stove meant one thing: zeytinyağlılar. These slow-cooked, olive oil-braised dishes are the undisputed kings of the cooling rack. While a grandmother might traditionally spend a hot summer afternoon shelling fresh pink cranberry beans, you can achieve the exact same melt-in-your-mouth magic on a chaotic Tuesday using canned pinto beans. The secret isn't foraging the perfect pod; it's ruthlessly washing away the metallic canning liquid, sweetening the oil with carrots and a pinch of sugar, and having the discipline to let the pot cool completely on the stove before it ever hits the table.
Before you start
Purge the canning liquid from the beans.
Pour the canned beans into a fine-mesh strainer and run them under cold tap water for at least 60 seconds, tossing gently, until all the thick, starchy canning liquid is completely gone and the water runs crystal clear. This mimics the mandatory traditional step of boiling away the bitter 'kara su' (black water) and ensures your final olive oil sauce remains clean and vibrant.
Ingredients
- extra virgin olive oil1/3 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- medium carrots2 med
- garlic3 med cloves
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- large tomato1 large
- granulated sugar1 tsp
- kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
- canned pinto beans30 oz
- hot water1 cup
- extra virgin olive oil1 tbsp
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1/2 cup
- lemon1 med
Method
- 01
Sweat the onions patiently.
Place a wide, shallow pot or braiser over medium-low heat, add the 1/3 cup of olive oil, the chopped onion, and a pinch of salt. Sauté gently, stirring occasionally, until the onions are completely translucent and soft, about 6 to 8 minutes, making absolutely sure they do not brown.
- 02
Sweeten the oil with carrots and garlic.
Add the diced carrots to the onions and sauté for another 4 to 5 minutes until their fat-soluble beta-carotene begins to bleed, turning the olive oil a brilliant golden-orange. Stir in the sliced garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant.
- 03
Fry the tomato paste.
Push the vegetables to the edges of the pot to create a clearing in the center. Drop in the tomato paste and let it fry directly on the hot surface for 1 to 2 minutes until it darkens slightly and smells sweet, then stir it evenly into the vegetables.
- 04
Build the braising liquid.
Add the grated fresh tomato and the sugar to the pot. Cook for 2 minutes until the fresh tomato juices reduce slightly and harmonize with the oil.
- 05
Simmer the beans.
Gently fold the rinsed beans into the pot and pour in the hot water so the beans are barely submerged. Add the kosher salt, bring the liquid to a gentle boil, then immediately reduce the heat to the absolute lowest setting, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and simmer gently for 20 to 25 minutes.
- 06
Respect the cooling rack.
Turn off the heat and do not open the lid. Leave the pot exactly where it is on the stove and let it sit undisturbed until it reaches room temperature, about 2 hours. This is the ultimate secret of zeytinyağlı cooking, allowing the olive oil to emulsify completely with the starchy bean broth.
- 07
Polish and serve.
Once at room temperature, carefully remove the lid and drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon of raw extra virgin olive oil over the beans for a glossy shine and a punch of fresh, grassy flavor. Scatter the chopped parsley over the top and serve directly from the pot with lemon wedges on the side.
Notes
Skip the potatoes.
Many traditional recipes include diced potato to stretch the meal for a large family. However, potatoes release excess starch that can make your beautiful olive oil sauce look cloudy and spoil faster in the fridge. For the sleekest, most flavor-forward version, skip them and let the sweet carrots and beans shine.
Let it rest overnight.
This dish demands to be made ahead of time, as zeytinyağlılar taste exponentially better the next day after resting in the refrigerator. Make this on a quiet Sunday afternoon and pull it out on a chaotic Tuesday evening to mop up with crusty bread.
Never squeeze lemon into the pot during cooking.
Serve lemon wedges strictly on the side. Squeezing citrus into the dish while it cooks or cools degrades the olive oil, turns the glossy sauce muddy, and spoils your leftovers far more quickly.
From Cook Turkish in America.