Ya Qian Yang Rou
牙签羊肉·(yáqiān yángròu)
Cangying Guanzi: The Weekend Fly Restaurant
In the gritty, neon-lit back alleys of Chengdu, the cangying guanzi (fly restaurants) serve unapologetic, aggressively delicious food meant to be devoured over cold beer. Toothpick lamb is the crown jewel of this culture. A brilliant miniaturization of massive Xinjiang cumin skewers, it’s a tactile, messy, entirely addictive dish that delivers the numbing, spicy jolt of the homeland to an American weeknight. The grandmother-approved secrets to doing this right? Soak the toothpicks in boiling water so they don't incinerate, and toss the freshly fried meat with the dry spices off the heat so they bloom instead of burning.
Before you start
Hydrate the toothpicks so they don't incinerate.
Place your bamboo toothpicks in a heat-proof bowl and cover them with boiling water for at least 30 minutes prior to threading the meat.
Ingredients
- boneless lamb shoulder1 lb
- yellow onion1/2 small
- water2 tbsp
- Shaoxing rice wine1 tbsp
- light soy sauce1 tbsp
- baking soda1/2 tsp
- salt1/2 tsp
- whole cumin seeds1 1/2 tbsp
- whole red Sichuan peppercorns1 1/2 tsp
- Chinese chili flakes1 tbsp
- white sesame seeds1 tbsp
- sugar1/2 tsp
- MSG1/4 tsp
- bamboo toothpicks70 med
- neutral oil1 cup
- Sichuan chili oil2 tbsp
- fresh cilantro1 handful
Method
- 01
Extract the onion juice to kill the gamey flavor.
In a small bowl, crush the chopped onion with the water, squeezing it to release the juices. Discard the onion solids, keeping only the infused onion water.
- 02
Velvet the meat so it survives a hard fry.
Place the lamb cubes in a mixing bowl with the onion water, Shaoxing wine, light soy sauce, salt, and baking soda. Vigorously stir the meat in one direction with your hand for about two minutes until it absorbs the liquid and becomes sticky, then let it marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes.
- 03
Toast and grind the dry spices.
Place a dry skillet over medium heat and toast the cumin seeds and Sichuan peppercorns for 2 to 3 minutes, shaking constantly, until highly fragrant. Crush them into a coarse powder using a mortar and pestle, then combine in a large mixing bowl with the chili flakes, sesame seeds, sugar, and MSG.
- 04
Thread the lamb.
Drain the soaked toothpicks and pat them dry. Thread a single cube of marinated lamb squarely onto the center of each stick so both ends protrude.
- 05
Flash-fry the skewers.
Heat the neutral oil in a wok or heavy skillet over medium-high heat to 375°F. Working in two batches to avoid crowding, drop the lamb into the oil and fry for 2 to 3 minutes, agitating gently, until the meat is deeply browned and the fat crisps up.
- 06
Execute the off-heat spice toss.
Aggressively scoop the hot lamb out of the oil with a slotted spoon and drop it directly into the bowl of dry spices. Drizzle the chili oil over the top and toss vigorously so the residual heat blooms the spices into a heavy crust. Fold in the cilantro and serve immediately.
Notes
A note on MSG.
It is entirely optional, but a pinch of MSG is the authentic heartbeat of the fly restaurant experience. Don't be afraid of it.
From Cook Sichuan in America.