Weeknight Pasta al Forno
The Friday Night Abbondanza: American Bounty, Italian Soul
There is a smell that teleports a first-generation kid straight back to their childhood dining room, and it is the blistering, smoky perfume of a true pasta al forno. Forget the heavy, ricotta-logged baked ziti of mid-century American diners; the homeland original is a masterclass in moisture management and structural integrity. By employing a quick sausage ragù, a foolproof besciamella, and the absolute golden rule of half-cooking the pasta, you can pull off this magnificent Sunday standard on a busy weeknight. It is the uncompromised taste of home, achievable right now in a standard American kitchen.
Before you start
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a rolling boil for the pasta.
Ingredients
- extra-virgin olive oil2 tbsp
- yellow onion1/2 med
- ground beef1/2 lb
- ground Italian sausage1/2 lb
- dry white or red wine1/2 cup
- passata di pomodoro24 oz
- kosher salt1 tsp
- fresh basil4 sprigs
- unsalted butter3 tbsp
- all-purpose flour3 tbsp
- whole milk2 cup
- freshly grated nutmeg1/4 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- rigatoni or tortiglioni1 lb
- low-moisture whole-milk mozzarella8 oz
- scamorza affumicata or smoked provolone4 oz
- Parmigiano-Reggiano1 cup
Method
- 01
Brown the meats with diced onion to build a deep, caramelized foundation.
In a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat, sauté the onion in olive oil until translucent, then add the beef and sausage. Break the meat down with a wooden spoon and brown hard for 5 to 7 minutes. Deglaze with wine, let it evaporate, then stir in the passata, 1 teaspoon of kosher salt, and basil sprigs to simmer on low for 15 to 20 minutes.
- 02
Whisk a quick besciamella to bind the pasta with a luxurious silkiness.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat, whisk in the flour, and cook for 1 minute to form a lightly toasted roux. Slowly stream in the warm milk, whisking constantly for 3 to 4 minutes until thickened like heavy cream, then remove from heat and stir in the remaining salt and nutmeg.
- 03
Boil the pasta for exactly half the package instructions so it finishes cooking in the oven.
Drop the rigatoni into heavily salted boiling water, cut the recommended al dente time completely in half, and drain it while the center remains unyieldingly hard. This crucial step prevents the pasta from turning to flabby mush as it absorbs the tomato sauce during the bake.
- 04
Toss the half-cooked pasta with the meats, cheeses, and sauce before layering.
Remove the basil from the ragù and toss two-thirds of the meat sauce, half the besciamella, half the mozzarella, and all the diced scamorza with the drained pasta. Spread a thin layer of the remaining meat sauce on the bottom of a 9x13-inch baking dish, then pour in the entire pasta mixture.
- 05
Top the dish with the remaining besciamella and hard cheeses to build the crust.
Dollop the rest of the besciamella unevenly over the pasta, sprinkle with the remaining mozzarella, and finish with a heavy, even snowfall of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
- 06
Bake covered to hydrate the pasta, then broil for a blistering crust and let the dish rest.
Cover tightly with foil and bake at 400°F for 20 minutes, then uncover and bake 15 minutes more. Broil for the final 3 to 5 minutes until the cheese is bubbling and deeply browned, then remove and let it rest on the counter for 15 minutes so the starches settle and it holds its gorgeous shape on the plate.
Notes
Standard American block mozzarella is actually the perfect tool for this job.
Authentic pasta al forno requires dry cheese to prevent a watery sauce. While fresh fior di latte must drain overnight to work properly, common low-moisture whole-milk block mozzarella perfectly mimics traditional aged mozzarella without the fuss. Just avoid pre-shredded cheese, which is coated in anti-caking agents that ruin the melt.
Ditch the ricotta in favor of besciamella and smoked scamorza.
Massive tubs of ricotta mixed into the pasta are a distinctly Italian-American diner invention. The true homeland version relies on silky besciamella and smoky scamorza, which feels lighter on the palate but vastly more profound in flavor.
From Cook Italian in America.