Vojvođanski Pekarski Krompir
Војвођански пекарски кромпир·(voy-vo-jan-ski pe-kar-ski krom-peer)
Nedeljni Ručak: The Sacred Sunday Supper
In the agricultural heartland of Vojvodina, before the luxury of reliable home ovens, families hauled heavy metal roasting pans to the neighborhood pekara. There, potatoes and smoked pork slow-roasted in the residual heat of massive brick bread ovens while the town attended Sunday service. This is not a delicate French gratin. It is a masterclass in rustic Balkan alchemy: no fancy stocks or heavy cream, just the magic that happens when potatoes, onions, sweet paprika, and a splash of water meet the profound, smoky depth of rendered bacon fat. It is the undisputed heavyweight champion of the Sunday supper.
Before you start
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Ingredients
- Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes2 lb
- yellow onions2 med
- pork lard1 tbsp
- thick-cut hardwood-smoked bacon8 oz
- sweet Hungarian paprika1 tbsp
- dried thyme1 tsp
- Kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- water1 1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Score the bacon into traditional crests.
On the fatty edge of each two-inch bacon segment, make three or four small vertical slits halfway through the meat so they fan out and render aggressively in the oven.
- 02
Sauté the onions in lard to build the flavor base.
Melt the lard in a large skillet over medium-high heat and cook the onions until totally softened and deeply browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Do not rush this step; it is where the dish gets its soul.
- 03
Season the potatoes.
In a large mixing bowl, toss the sliced potatoes with the sweet paprika, dried thyme, salt, and black pepper, ensuring every slice is evenly coated.
- 04
Assemble the baking pan.
Grease a 9x13-inch metal roasting pan or ceramic baking dish. Spread the caramelized onions and all the leftover lard from the skillet across the bottom, then layer the seasoned potatoes over them in a slightly overlapping, shingled pattern.
- 05
Add the water line.
Carefully pour the water down the inside edge of the dish so you don't wash the spices off the potatoes. You want just enough water so the bottom layer is submerged, but the top layer remains exposed to the dry heat of the oven.
- 06
Crown with the crested bacon and roast.
Arrange the bacon pieces evenly over the top layer of potatoes and place the dish in the center of the hot oven. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, using tongs to flip the bacon pieces halfway through so they crisp on both sides.
- 07
Bake until all the water has completely evaporated.
The dish is ready only when the potatoes are tender and golden-brown on top, and you can hear them gently frying in the rendered bacon fat at the bottom of the pan. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.
Notes
Use real pork lard if you can find it.
For decades, first-generation Americans abandoned lard for inferior vegetable oils. Reintroducing high-quality leaf lard or reserved bacon grease is the single most impactful way to recreate the genuine tastes of a Balkan homeland.
Stick to metal pans for the best crisp.
Traditionally baked in a shallow metal tepsija, metal conducts heat aggressively to aid the final frying stage once the water evaporates. If using a glass or ceramic casserole dish, you may need to extend the baking time by 5 to 10 minutes.
From Cook Balkan in America.