Vegetarian Tamales de Frijol y Quesillo con Hoja de Aguacate

Before you start

• Toast the avocado leaves until fragrant.

  Heat a dry cast-iron skillet over medium heat and press the avocado leaves lightly against the metal for 10 to 15 seconds per side until they change color slightly and release a distinct, licorice-like aroma.

• Puree the beans with the toasted leaves.

  In a blender, combine the undrained canned black beans and the toasted avocado leaves until completely smooth.

• Fry the bean puree into a thick paste.

  Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, sauté the onion and garlic until golden, then pour in the bean mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 15 minutes until it reduces to a dense paste that pulls cleanly away from the pan, then let cool completely.

• Roast the banana leaves over an open flame.

  Pass each thawed and cleaned leaf square slowly over a medium-low stove burner until the heat breaks down the cellular structure, instantly turning the leaf a glossy, dark green and rendering it pliable.

Ingredients

• dried Mexican avocado leaves5 large
• canned black beans30 oz
• white onion1/2 med
• garlic cloves3 large
• vegetable oil3 tbsp
• vegetable shortening1 cup
• masa harina3 cup
• vegetable broth3 1/2 cup
• baking powder1 1/2 tsp
• kosher salt1 tsp
• Oaxaca cheese1/2 lb
• frozen banana leaves1 large package

Method

1. 01

   Beat the shortening until pale and fluffy.

   In a large bowl, use an electric hand mixer to beat the vegetable shortening with the baking powder and kosher salt for 8 to 10 minutes until it doubles in volume and looks like clouds. Do not rush this step, as it is the absolute key to a light, spongy tamal.

2. 02

   Incorporate the masa harina and broth into the whipped fat.

   Gradually alternate adding the masa harina and the warm vegetable broth into the bowl, mixing continuously until the texture resembles a thick, spreadable buttercream frosting.

3. 03

   Spread the masa onto the prepared banana leaves and add the fillings.

   Lay a leaf shiny side up, spread a golf-ball-sized mound of masa into a thin 5-inch circle, and top the center with two tablespoons of the cooled black bean paste and a generous pinch of stringed Oaxaca cheese.

4. 04

   Fold the leaves to envelop the filling tightly.

   Fold the left side of the leaf over the center, then the right side to meet it, and finally fold the top and bottom flaps down to create a tight rectangular packet.

5. 05

   Steam the tamales for roughly an hour until the leaf peels away cleanly.

   Arrange the tamales in a steamer basket lined with leftover leaf scraps, ensuring they do not touch the water. Cover tightly and steam over medium heat for 60 to 75 minutes, then let them rest off the heat for 15 minutes to firm up before serving.

Notes

• Split the work across multiple days.

  Making tamales in one evening is an exhausting endeavor. Prepare the dense bean paste and roast the banana leaves up to three days in advance, leaving only the masa mixing and assembly for the evening you plan to steam them.

• Do not fear a wet masa.

  Masa destined for banana leaves should be significantly wetter and more spreadable than masa for corn husks, as the moisture trapped in the thick leaf prevents the final tamal from becoming soggy.

• Source true Mexican avocado leaves.

  Look for whole, unbroken, vibrantly olive-green dried leaves in the spice aisle of a Latin market. Guatemalan or Hass avocado leaves are not used for culinary purposes and will not deliver the required anise flavor.