Umukuji Tempura
うむくじ天ぷら·(oo-moo-koo-jee tem-poo-rah)
Sata Andagi & Island Sweets: Afternoon Snacks and Rituals
Mash purple Okinawan sweet potatoes, drop ragged spoonfuls, listen as the hot oil spits. Walk into any supermarket deli in Okinawa and you'll find a pile of these purplish-brown fritters. Umukuji tempura is an everyday comfort food that kids devour after school. We’re swapping native sweet potato starch for a bag of tapioca starch to recreate that shattering crust and mochi-like center on a busy weeknight. Pull them with a spider skimmer, drop on a wire rack.
Ingredients
- purple sweet potatoes1 lb
- tapioca starch3/4 cup
- granulated sugar3 tbsp
- kosher salt1/4 tsp
- water2 tbsp
- neutral oil1 cup
Method
- 01
Cook the sweet potatoes.
To save time on a weeknight, pierce the sweet potatoes a few times with a fork and microwave on HIGH for 6 to 8 minutes, turning once, until very tender. Let them cool just enough so you can handle them.
- 02
Mash the potatoes while hot.
Peel the skins off the sweet potatoes. Place the steaming flesh into a large bowl and mash thoroughly with a fork, leaving a few rustic lumps for texture.
- 03
Knead the dough to the consistency of an earlobe.
While the potatoes are still warm, add the tapioca starch, sugar, and salt. Knead with your hands until the dough reaches 'mimitabu'—the exact firmness and softness of a human earlobe. If it's crumbly, add water a tablespoon at a time; if it's sticky, dust with a little more tapioca starch.
- 04
Shape the fritters.
Pinch off 2-tablespoon portions and roll them into plump balls. Flatten them between your palms into half-inch thick oval discs, then press your first three fingers lightly onto the top of each to leave shallow indentations, which maximizes surface area for a crispier fry.
- 05
Shallow fry the tempura.
Pour a half-inch of neutral oil into a heavy skillet and heat over medium-low to 330°F. Carefully slide the discs in and fry for 3 to 4 minutes per side until deeply crisp and browned on the edges. Do not let the oil get too hot, or the sugar will burn before the inside gets chewy.
- 06
Drain and serve warm.
Transfer to a wire rack or paper towels. Let them cool for just a few minutes, as they are best eaten warm when the contrast between the crispy shell and the mochi-like center is at its peak.
Notes
The Savory Cousin.
In some Okinawan households, this isn't a sweet snack, but a savory drinking food. To try it, skip the sugar, add a splash of dashi, and fold a quarter cup of chopped garlic chives right into the dough before frying.
Potato Varieties.
Stokes purple potatoes or white-skinned Hawaiian Okinawan potatoes work best. If you can't find purple potatoes, standard yellow or orange sweet potatoes taste perfectly authentic, even if you lose the signature color.
From Cook Okinawan in America.