Tumai Kuru to Shima-Dofu
紅芋と島豆腐·(Tumai Kuru to Shima-Dofu)
Asa to Jushi: Grounding Morning Rhythms
Tuesday evening at the stove, the cast-iron pan gets hot. The pork belly hisses. A block of shima-dofu waits on the board. This is a hearty meal built on dense, meaty island tofu and vibrant purple sweet potato. For a kid growing up thousands of miles away in an Ohio suburb, the smell of bonito flakes simmering on the stove while the house woke up was the undeniable scent of home. By pressing and salting, we transform standard supermarket tofu into the sturdy Shima-Dofu of the islands, balancing its salty chew with the buttery sweetness of the potato. This isn't the delicate, polite bowl of miso soup served next to a mainland sushi platter. Spoon the shallow broth over a bowl of short-grain rice and eat.
Before you start
Press the tofu to mimic authentic Shima-Dofu.
Wrap the block of extra-firm tofu tightly in two layers of paper towels, place it on a plate, set a heavy cast-iron skillet on top, and press for 15 to 20 minutes.
Soak the sweet potato.
Soak the cubed sweet potato in a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes, then drain to remove excess surface starch.
Ingredients
- extra-firm tofu14 oz
- Okinawan purple sweet potato3/4 lb
- awase dashi4 cup
- awase miso paste3 tbsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- scallions1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Microwave the sweet potato.
Place the drained sweet potato cubes in a microwave-safe bowl with 1 tablespoon of water, cover tightly, and microwave on high for 3 to 4 minutes until just tender enough to be pierced with a fork.
- 02
Tear and salt the pressed tofu.
Do not use a knife; tear the pressed tofu into rustic, jagged chunks with your hands so it can drink up the broth, then sprinkle evenly with the kosher salt.
- 03
Bring the dashi to a gentle simmer.
In a medium pot, heat the dashi over medium heat, taking care not to let it reach a rolling boil.
- 04
Simmer the tofu and sweet potato in the dashi.
Drop the torn tofu and par-cooked sweet potato into the broth and let them warm through together for 3 to 4 minutes.
- 05
Dissolve the miso paste into the broth.
Turn off the heat entirely. Place the miso in a ladle, lower it partially into the hot broth, and use chopsticks to whisk it smooth before stirring it out into the main pot.
- 06
Garnish and serve.
Ladle the steaming soup into wide bowls, ensuring everyone gets an equal amount of the meaty tofu and jewel-toned sweet potatoes, and top generously with fresh scallions.
Notes
Tear the tofu.
Tearing the tofu rather than slicing it is an essential Okinawan technique; the jagged edges act like a sponge, allowing the morning broth to penetrate deeply into the soybean matrix.
Pre-cook the sweet potato.
Okinawan sweet potatoes are incredibly dense. Boiling them raw directly in the soup will release starches that turn your beautiful broth murky and grey.
Sourcing the sweet potato.
Look for pale skin and purple flesh at your local Asian market. If unavailable, Japanese Murasaki or standard yellow sweet potatoes work flawlessly, but avoid watery, orange American yams.
From Cook Okinawan in America.