Tourlou Katsarolas
Τουρλού Κατσαρόλας·(toor-LOO kat-sah-RO-las)
Lathera (The Weeknight Backbone)
Tourlou isn't restaurant food. In Greece, they use an old Ottoman word for "all mixed up" to describe this ladera—the absolute backbone of the Greek weeknight, where you ditch keeping vegetables crisp and instead braise three chopped eggplants in a heavy Dutch oven with a half-cup of good olive oil until the zucchini collapses into a rich, jammy sauce. Serve it warm, never boiling hot, with a massive block of feta and enough crusty bread to sop up the seasoned oil.
Before you start
Ensure all vegetables are cut to a uniform size.
Take care to cut the potatoes, eggplants, and zucchini into equal 1 1/2-inch chunks so they cook evenly and retain their structure during the long braise.
Ingredients
- extra virgin olive oil1/2 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- garlic cloves3 med
- Yukon Gold potato1 large
- Italian eggplant1 med
- zucchini2 med
- green bell pepper1 med
- red bell pepper1 med
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- ripe tomatoes3 med
- sugar1/2 tsp
- sea salt1 tsp
- black pepper1 tsp
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1/2 cup
- fresh mint leaves1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Build the foundation.
Place a wide Dutch oven over medium heat, pour in about 1/3 cup of the olive oil, and once it shimmers, sweat the onions until soft and sweet, about 4 to 5 minutes. Toss in the sliced garlic for the final minute.
- 02
Coat the sponges.
Add the potato, eggplant, zucchini, and bell peppers. Stir gently for a few minutes; the eggplant will act like a sponge and absorb the oil, which is exactly what you want for a luxurious texture.
- 03
Burn the paste.
Clear a small space in the center of the pot and drop in the tomato paste. Let it sizzle on the bare metal for 30 seconds to release its deep umami before stirring it into the vegetables.
- 04
Start the braise.
Pour in the grated tomatoes, sugar, salt, pepper, and just 1/4 cup of hot water. Do not drown the pot; the vegetables will release their own juices.
- 05
Simmer gently and submit.
Turn the heat to low, cover tightly, and simmer for 40 to 45 minutes. Resist the urge to stir and mash the tender vegetables—instead, grab the pot by the handles and give it a gentle shake every 15 minutes.
- 06
Finish with the emulsification.
When a fork slides effortlessly through the potatoes and the liquid has reduced to an oily glaze, turn off the heat. Scatter the parsley and mint, drizzle the remaining olive oil, and give the pot one final shake.
- 07
Let it rest.
Leave the lid on and let the pot sit on the warm stove for at least 20 minutes. Serve it warm, never piping hot, with a massive block of feta and crusty bread.
Notes
Canned tomatoes in winter.
Authentic Tourlou demands ripe summer tomatoes. If you're cooking in November, use high-quality canned crushed tomatoes and add a tiny splash of red wine vinegar alongside the sugar to mimic the lost brightness.
Don't skimp on the olive oil.
Your instincts might tell you to cut back on the fat, but the olive oil emulsifies with the tomato pectin and vegetable water to create the sauce. Skimping guarantees boiled, watery vegetables.
Pick the right pot.
Use a wide, shallow pot like a braiser or Dutch oven. A tall, narrow soup pot will turn the bottom vegetables to mush while the top ones just steam.
From Cook Greek in America.