Tortilla Española
Chapter 4: Larger Shares
If there is one dish that separates a serious Spanish tapas joint from a cynical small-plates cash grab, it is the tortilla de patatas. Forget the dense, cold, oxidized wedges you've seen sitting in deli cases. In a great American tapas restaurant—think Jaleo or Casa Dani—the tortilla is a living, breathing thing. It hits the table hot, puffed slightly like a golden soufflé, with a center that is rich, custardy, and perfectly jugosa. The trick to pulling this off at home without missing your own party is prep. We separate the lazy, slow poaching of the potatoes from the rapid, high-heat sear, so you can pour the Albariño and pass the jamón instead of sweating over a stove.
Before you start
Submerge the vegetables in oil.
In a medium, heavy-bottomed pot, combine the sliced onions, potatoes, 2 teaspoons of the sea salt, and the olive oil. Ensure the vegetables are fully submerged.
Poach the potatoes low and slow.
Bring the oil to a very gentle simmer over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring gently and occasionally, until the potatoes are completely fork-tender and the onions are melting, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Drain and reserve the infused oil.
Pour the potato-onion mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a large, heat-proof bowl. Do not throw away the oil; you will use it to cook the tortilla, and the leftover liquid gold is perfect for vinaigrettes or aioli.
Ingredients
- Spanish extra-virgin olive oil2 1/2 cup
- Yukon Gold potatoes1 1/2 lb
- Spanish sweet onion1 large
- eggs7 large
- fine sea salt2 1/4 tsp
Method
- 01
Macerate the potatoes in the eggs.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with a generous pinch of sea salt until frothy, then fold in the warm poached potatoes and onions. Walk away for 15 minutes. The dehydrated potatoes act like a sponge, absorbing the raw egg, while the residual heat begins to form a rich custard base.
- 02
Bring a skillet to high heat.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the reserved infused olive oil in an 8-inch to 10-inch nonstick skillet over high heat. You want the pan almost smoking for the rapid sear.
- 03
Pour, swirl, and set the edges.
Pour the entire egg-and-potato mixture into the hot pan and rapidly shake it in a circular motion for about 15 seconds. Turn the heat down to medium-low and let it cook undisturbed for about 2 minutes, until the edges turn golden brown but the center remains loose.
- 04
Execute the flip.
Run a flat dinner plate under the tap and shake off the excess water, or rub it with a drop of oil to prevent sticking. Place the plate upside-down flush over the skillet. In one confident, rapid motion, invert the pan and plate together over a sink.
- 05
Seal the bottom.
Gently slide the tortilla off the plate back into the pan, using a rubber spatula to tuck the edges under. Cook for exactly one more minute to seal the bottom while keeping the interior juicy.
- 06
Rest and serve.
Flip the tortilla back onto a clean serving platter and let it rest for 3 to 5 minutes so the custardy center can stabilize before cutting into wedges.
Notes
Respect the potato cultivar.
Do not use Russets, which will disintegrate into mush, or waxy red potatoes, which won't absorb the egg. Yukon Golds are the closest American supermarket equivalent to the prized Spanish Kennebec or Agria varieties.
Choose a smooth, buttery olive oil.
Use an Arbequina extra-virgin olive oil for the confit. Avoid robust, peppery oils or generic vegetable oils, as the potatoes will absorb the cooking medium's flavor profile completely.