Torta Callejera de Frijol, Jamón y Quesillo
El Almuerzo (The Morning Masa Rhythm)
A ham and cheese sandwich is pedestrian almost anywhere else, but in Oaxaca, it's a masterpiece of street-level engineering. The real secret isn't the meat—it's a dense, dark puree of black beans spiked with the anise-like magic of toasted avocado leaves. Hollowing out the bread creates a structurally sound vessel for griddle-seared ham, blistered jalapeños, and a ridiculous pull of melting quesillo, giving you an unabashedly messy, shatteringly crisp bite of the motherland on a Tuesday night.
Before you start
Hollow out the top halves of the rolls.
Using your fingers, pinch and pull out the soft white bread crumb from the inside of the top buns to create a cavity that holds the ingredients and prevents a soggy sandwich.
Ingredients
- vegetable oil or lard1 tbsp
- white onion1/4 cup
- garlic1 med clove
- canned black beans with liquid15 oz
- dried avocado leaves2 med
- dried chile de árbol1 med
- saltto taste
- teleras or soft sub rolls2 large
- unsalted butter1 tbsp
- high-quality cooked ham6 slices
- Oaxaca cheese or Monterey Jack1 cup
- mayonnaise2 tbsp
- avocado1/2 med
- Roma tomato1/2 med
- white onion1/4 small
- pickled jalapeños or chipotles in adoboto taste
Method
- 01
Toast the avocado leaves and chile de árbol.
In a dry medium skillet over medium heat, toast the leaves and chile for 30 to 60 seconds until fragrant, being careful not to burn them.
- 02
Puree the toasted aromatics with the black beans.
Transfer the leaves, chile, and the entire can of black beans with its liquid into a blender, pureeing until completely smooth.
- 03
Fry the bean puree into a thick paste.
Heat the oil or lard in the skillet over medium-high heat, sauté the chopped onion and garlic for 2 minutes, then pour in the beans. Stir constantly over medium-low heat for 5 to 8 minutes until it reduces to a dark, spreadable paste.
- 04
Sear the ham and melt the cheese on a hot griddle.
Melt the butter on a griddle or wide skillet over medium heat, sear the ham for 1 minute per side, then pile the cheese directly onto the hot meat until it forms a gooey blanket.
- 05
Layer the ingredients into the hollowed rolls.
Smear the bottom buns with hot bean paste and the top buns with mayonnaise. Transfer the ham and cheese onto the bottom buns, topping with tomato, onion, avocado, and pickled jalapeños before capping with the top bun.
- 06
Press and toast the assembled tortas.
Return the sandwiches to the lightly greased griddle, pressing down firmly with a heavy spatula. Toast for 2 minutes per side until the bread is shatteringly crisp and the cheese weeps out the sides, then slice diagonally and serve.
Notes
Source authentic dried avocado leaves from a Latin market.
Do not substitute with leaves from a standard California Hass avocado tree, as they lack the necessary anise flavor. If you can't find dried Mexican avocado leaves, substitute a small sprig of fresh epazote or omit them entirely.
Monterey Jack makes a highly functional substitute for quesillo.
While authentic Oaxaca cheese is deeply preferred for its stringy melt and slight tang, standard low-moisture mozzarella or Monterey Jack will behave similarly under the heat of the griddle.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.