Tlayudas de la Calle
(tlah-YOO-dahs)
Antojitos & The Masa Life: Street Food at Home
A true tlayuda isn't some glorified Mexican pizza. It is a masterpiece of Oaxacan street culture built on unapologetic fat and deeply infused beans. The secret to making this taste exactly like a smoky night out in the Mercado 20 de Noviembre lies in two uncompromisable foundations: the deeply savory bite of roasted pork fat, known as asiento, and the anise-scented whisper of avocado leaves in the beans. Folded on a hot grill until the quesillo weeps and the massive tortilla blisters, this is street food undiluted and fiercely authentic, brought directly into your own kitchen on a Tuesday night.
Before you start
Recreate the asiento.
If authentic Oaxacan asiento is unavailable at your local carnicería, blend 3 tablespoons of high-quality lard with 1 tablespoon of finely crushed pork rinds and a pinch of salt to replicate the intense, roasted pork flavor.
Substitute the avocado leaves.
If you cannot find dried Oaxacan avocado leaves, you can mimic their native anise-like aroma by adding 1/4 teaspoon of crushed anise seed and 1 dried bay leaf to the beans as they simmer.
Ingredients
- lard or neutral oil2 tbsp
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic2 small clove
- canned whole black beans2 15-oz can
- dried avocado leaves3 med
- imported tlayuda shells4 large
- asiento1/4 cup
- quesillo1 lb
- tasajo or cooked Mexican chorizo1 lb
- green cabbage2 cup
- avocado2 large
- roma tomato1 med
- radish4 med
- fresh cilantro or chepiche1/2 cup
- salsa1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Infuse and puree the black bean paste.
Heat the lard in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion and garlic until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Pour in the undrained black beans and toasted avocado leaves, simmering for 10 minutes. Remove the leaves, puree the mixture until smooth with a blender, and cook over low heat until it thickens into a spreadable paste.
- 02
Toast the tlayuda shell.
Preheat an outdoor grill to medium-high or place the tlayuda shell directly on the middle rack of a 400°F oven. Let it heat just until it begins to toast and becomes slightly pliable before it hardens.
- 03
Build the savory foundation.
Working quickly while the shell is hot on the heat source, smear about 1 tablespoon of the asiento evenly across the entire surface, taking it all the way to the edges. Follow this with a generous, even layer of the warm black bean paste.
- 04
Layer the fillings.
Scatter a handful of the stringed quesillo evenly over the warm beans, followed by a handful of shredded cabbage and your hot seared tasajo or cooked chorizo.
- 05
Fold and crisp the tlayuda.
Once the cheese begins to soften and the bottom of the tlayuda is deeply toasted and fragrant, use tongs to fold it in half into a massive half-moon. Press down gently with a spatula, letting it sit for a minute per side to fully melt the cheese and marry the flavors.
- 06
Garnish and serve immediately.
Remove the folded tlayuda from the heat and gently open it just enough to stuff with fresh avocado slices, tomato, radishes, and cilantro. Serve piping hot with spicy salsa and lime wedges on the side.
Notes
The Street-Cart Fold.
While open-faced tlayudas look beautiful and abundant for tourists, nocturnal street carts serve them folded (doblada). It is deeply favored by locals because it captures the heat perfectly to gratin the quesillo while keeping the massive, crispy tortilla manageable to eat by hand.
From Oaxacan Roots.