The Veterinarian's Midnight Snack
Dyrlægens Natmad·(deer-lay-ens nat-mad)
Matpakke & Smørrebrød: Rhythms of the Nordic Midday
If there is one open-faced sandwich that separates the casual Scandinavian enthusiast from the true local, it is this one. Born in 1920s Copenhagen when a veterinarian named Sigurd Kejlgaard needed a hearty, protein-packed meal after a long night tending the King's horses, it is an unapologetic masterclass in fat and texture. We swap the hard-to-find salted veal for good deli corned beef, and hack the classic meat jelly using a can of consommé. Put the jelly together on a Sunday, and you are five minutes away from working-class comfort food any night of the week.
Before you start
Bring the liverwurst to room temperature.
Pull the braunschweiger out of the fridge at least 20 minutes before you build the sandwich so it spreads easily like buttercream.
Ingredients
- beef consommé1 1/4 cup
- unflavored gelatin2 1/2 tsp
- soy sauce1 tsp
- slices dense pumpernickel bread2 large
- salted butter1 tbsp
- liverwurst or braunschweiger4 oz
- deli corned beef4 oz
- red onion1/4 med
- fresh watercress1/4 cup
- black pepper1/8 tsp
Method
- 01
Bloom the gelatin in the cold beef consommé.
Pour 1/4 cup of the cold consommé into a small saucepan, sprinkle the unflavored gelatin evenly across the surface, and let it sit undisturbed for 5 minutes.
- 02
Gently dissolve the gelatin over low heat.
Place the saucepan over medium-low heat and warm the liquid just until the gelatin completely dissolves, being careful not to let it boil.
- 03
Mix the meat aspic and let it set.
Remove the pan from the heat, whisk in the remaining 1 cup of consommé and the soy sauce, then pour the mixture into a flat-bottomed container until it sits about 1/4-inch deep. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours until firmly set.
- 04
Waterproof the bread.
When you are ready to eat, take the slices of dense rye and smear them edge-to-edge with butter. This lipid barrier is non-negotiable; it prevents the liverwurst from turning the bread into a soggy mess.
- 05
Layer the heavy proteins.
Spread a generous, thick layer of the room-temperature liverwurst over the buttered bread, then loosely fold the slices of corned beef and place them on top to create height and texture.
- 06
Crown with aspic and fresh garnishes.
Run a butter knife through the cold meat aspic to cut it into small rectangular strips, delicately lay a few pieces across the corned beef, and finish with the raw red onion rings, watercress, and a crack of black pepper.
Notes
Eat this with a knife and fork.
This is a structurally demanding, heavy sandwich that will collapse if you try to pick it up with your hands. Pour a cold Pilsner and eat it the way the Danes do.
The meat aspic lasts all week.
Once you make the beef jelly, it will keep in the fridge for up to seven days, turning this daunting culinary project into a five-minute assembly job.
From A Taste of Hjem: Scandinavian Heritage in the American Kitchen.