The Tompkins Square Rum-Plumped Raisin & Walnut Suspension
Chapter 2 — Cream Cheeses & Schmears
Twelve hours of soaking lets the raisins swell. By mechanically whipping full-fat cheese with cold seltzer water, the deli worker achieves a fluffy, cloud-like texture without diluting its lactic tang. To properly suspend toasted walnuts and these dark rum-plumped raisins—an old-school pastry trick that ensures the fruit remains soft, jewel-like, and profoundly edible even straight from the refrigerator—drain the residual liquor and let the stand mixer paddle fold them in.
Before you start
Combine the raisins, rum, water, and brown sugar in a small saucepan.
Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-low heat, shaking the pan until almost all liquid is absorbed, then let cool completely to room temperature.
Toast the chopped walnuts in a dry skillet over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes.
Toss continuously until fragrant and releasing oils, then immediately transfer to a cool plate to halt cooking.
Ingredients
- full-fat brick-style cream cheese16 oz
- cold unflavored seltzer water3 tbsp
- golden raisins3/4 cup
- dark rum3 tbsp
- water2 tbsp
- dark brown sugar1 tbsp
- English walnuts1/2 cup
- honey1/2 tbsp
- ground cinnamon1/2 tsp
- kosher salt1 large pinch
Method
- 01
Place the softened cream cheese into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
Beat on medium speed for 1 to 2 minutes until it forms a smooth, homogenous paste with no lumps.
- 02
Stream in the cold seltzer water while the mixer runs on medium-high speed.
Add the seltzer one tablespoon at a time, continuing to whip for 2 to 3 minutes until the cheese visibly lightens, aerates, and increases in volume.
- 03
Stop the mixer, scrape down the bowl, and add the honey, cinnamon, and kosher salt.
Pulse lightly to incorporate the flavorings into the aerated cheese.
- 04
Gently fold the cooled rum-plumped raisins and toasted walnuts into the whipped cream cheese using a stiff silicone spatula.
Use a cutting motion to distribute the inclusions evenly without crushing the aerated structure.
- 05
Transfer the finished schmear to an airtight deli container.
Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before serving to allow the matrix to firm up slightly and the flavors to meld.
Notes
Apply the schmear with unapologetic exactitude.
Use a wide-bladed offset spatula to push 1 1/2 to 2 ounces of cream cheese outward toward the crust with a twisting flick of the wrist, leaving no bald spots.
Serve on a dense, chewy Cinnamon Raisin or Salt bagel.
The aggressive salinity of a salt bagel perfectly cuts the rich, molasses-rum sweetness of the spread for a highly sophisticated counterpoint.