The Structural Variants

Before you start

• Whip the softened cream cheese and scallions in a stand mixer for two minutes to introduce air.

  Never scrape cold block cream cheese onto a hot bagel. You want a light, spreadable schmear.

• Use the bagel-knife twist to apply a generous layer of schmear to both the top and bottom halves.

  Scoop about one-and-a-half ounces onto a butter knife and twist your wrist outward to push it to the very edges. This acts as a waterproofing barrier against the tomato juices.

• Layer the bias-cut smoked salmon in rippling, voluminous waves over the bottom half.

  Do not lay the fish flat; fold the paper-thin ribbons elegantly to build height and balance the texture.

• Add the thin red onions, followed by the salted and drained tomato slices.

  Draining the salted tomatoes for two minutes on paper towels is critical to preventing a soggy sandwich.

• Scatter the drained capers, press on the top half of the bagel, and slice cleanly down the middle with a serrated knife.

  Press the capers gently into the top layer of cream cheese so they don't roll away before you close the sandwich.

Ingredients

• high-gluten flour1000 g
• water570 g
• fine kosher salt20 g
• diastatic malt powder10 g
• instant yeast5 g
• water4 qt
• barley malt syrup50 g
• everything bagel seasoning1/2 cup
• cream cheese8 oz
• scallions1/4 cup
• Nova lox3 oz
• red onion1/4 med
• ripe hothouse tomato1 med
• non-pareil capers1 tbsp

Method

1. 01

   Combine the warm water and yeast, then mix in the flour, malt, and salt until the dough fights back.

   Use a stand mixer on low for 3 to 5 minutes, then medium-low for 5 to 8 minutes. This is a stiff 57% hydration dough; if your mixer overheats, turn it off and let it rest, but do not add more water.

2. 02

   Turn the dough out, cover with a damp towel, and let it bulk ferment at room temperature for one hour.

   It will puff slightly but will not double in size.

3. 03

   Divide the dough into precise portions using a kitchen scale and bench scraper.

   Scale 120g to 130g pieces for standard bagels, flagels, and twists. Scale exactly 56g pieces for minis.

4. 04

   Roll and fuse the dough into your chosen structural variant.

   For standard bagels and flagels, wrap an 8-to-10-inch rope around your hand and roll the seam firmly on the counter to fuse. For twists, fold a 14-inch rope in half, twist the strands 3 to 4 times, and pinch the ends tightly.

5. 05

   Transfer the shaped variants to lined baking sheets, wrap tightly in plastic, and cold proof in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours.

   This extended retardation is entirely non-negotiable; it builds the complex lactic flavor and creates the micro-blisters on the crust.

6. 06

   Preheat the oven to 450°F with a baking stone, and boil the dough in the malted kettle for 45 to 60 seconds per side.

   Whisk the barley malt syrup into the 4 quarts of boiling water until it looks like strong tea. Drop the bagels in 3 or 4 at a time.

7. 07

   If making flagels, smash them completely flat immediately after removing them from the boiling water.

   Use a stiff spatula or the flat bottom of a heavy measuring cup to press the wet bagel into a wide, oblong disc before the crust sets.

8. 08

   Coat the wet dough generously in seasoning, then bake directly on the preheated stone until deeply mahogany.

   Bake standards and flagels for 16 to 20 minutes (flipping halfway), twists for 14 to 18 minutes, and minis for 12 to 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before slicing.

Notes

• Scooping out the soft interior crumb of a bagel is considered a crime in New York, but structurally serves as an unparalleled vessel for maximizing schmear capacity.

  If you choose this untraditional route, slice the bagel and use a spoon to gently tear out the white crumb from both halves, leaving sturdy shells ready to accept a massive payload of cream cheese without the sandwich becoming too tall to comfortably bite.