The 'Raaaaachel' vs. The Reuben

The 'Raaaaachel' vs. The Reuben

Quick Deli Lunches (American Suburbs)

These are the two heavyweights of the Jewish-American deli counter. The Reuben brings fatty, earthy muscle; the Rachel counters with a peppery, crunchy snap. Both live or die by two unbending rules: a fiercely savory Russian dressing spiked with horseradish—not that sweet Thousand Island nonsense—and ruthless moisture control. Wring out your cabbage and pre-warm your meat, or suffer a soggy, disintegrated mess. This is authentic deli magic, stripped down and optimized for a Tuesday night in the suburbs.

Ingredients

  • mayonnaise1/2 cup
  • sour cream2 tbsp
  • ketchup3 tbsp
  • prepared horseradish2 tbsp
  • Worcestershire sauce1 tsp
  • white onion2 tbsp
  • smoked paprika1/2 tsp
  • Jewish rye or marble rye bread8 slices
  • unsalted butter4 tbsp
  • deli Swiss cheese8 slices
  • deli corned beef or pastrami1 lb
  • sauerkraut or deli coleslaw1 cup

Method

  1. 01

    Whisk the lifeblood of the sandwich.

    In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, ketchup, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, minced onion, and smoked paprika. Taste it—it should have a slight, nasal-clearing kick. This is true Russian dressing.

  2. 02

    Wring out the wetness.

    Place your sauerkraut (for a Reuben) or coleslaw (for a Rachel) in a fine-mesh sieve and press it aggressively with the back of a spoon. Wet cabbage is the enemy of crisp rye bread.

  3. 03

    Take the chill off the meat.

    Drop your sliced deli meat into a dry, large skillet over medium heat. Toss gently for 60 to 90 seconds just to wake up the savory fats and warm it through. Remove from the skillet and set aside.

  4. 04

    Construct the architecture.

    Butter one side of all eight bread slices edge-to-edge, then flip them over and spread a generous spoonful of dressing on the unbuttered sides. On four slices, build the stack in this exact order: one slice of cheese, a quarter pound of the warm meat, a quarter cup of the drained cabbage, and a final slice of cheese. Cap with the remaining bread, dressing-side down.

  5. 05

    Griddle with patience.

    Wipe your skillet clean and set it over medium-low heat. Place the sandwiches in the pan and cook undisturbed for 3 to 5 minutes until the bottom is deeply golden. Flip carefully and cook another 3 to 4 minutes until the Swiss cheese weeps down the sides.

  6. 06

    Slice and serve.

    Transfer to a cutting board and slice diagonally. Serve immediately with a garlic pickle spear and extra dressing for dipping.

Notes

  • Do not substitute Thousand Island dressing.

    Authentic deli flavor relies on the sharp, savory bite of horseradish-spiked Russian dressing to cut through the rich fat of the meat and cheese. Thousand Island is too sweet and will ruin the balance.

  • The cheese is the glue.

    Placing a slice of Swiss cheese on both the top and bottom of the meat and cabbage stack isn't just for flavor; it melts into the bread and acts as a binder to keep the sandwich from sliding apart.

From Cook Jewish-American Deli Food.

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