The "Pastrami Russ"
Chapter 4 — Lunch Bagels: The Heavyweight Delicatessen
It is a loophole of staggering, unapologetic deliciousness. Historically, strict kosher laws kept the delicatessen's hot pastrami fiercely segregated from the appetizing shop's cream cheese. But take the aggressive, coriander-laced spice rub of a classic beef pastrami, smoke it into a beautiful side of fatty North Atlantic salmon, and suddenly you have cultural amnesty. It delivers the peppery wallop of a heavyweight deli champion, legally bound to a thick schmear. Built strictly to the punishing standards of the Lower East Side, this is a masterpiece of a sandwich that honors its roots while giving you exactly what you'd gladly hand over sixteen dollars for on Orchard Street.
Before you start
Toast and crush the DIY spice blend.
If you cannot source pastrami-cured salmon, toast 1 tbsp whole coriander seeds, 1 tbsp whole black peppercorns, and 1/2 tsp mustard seeds in a dry skillet until fragrant, coarsely crush them, and stir in 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika and 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper.
Glaze and crust standard smoked salmon.
Thin 1 tsp dark molasses with a drop of warm water, brush it lightly over 4 oz of cold-smoked salmon, press the spice blend generously into the fish, and refrigerate tightly wrapped in plastic for at least 4 hours before assembling.
Ingredients
- pumpernickel or everything bagel1 large
- plain or scallion cream cheese2 tbsp
- spicy brown deli mustard1 1/2 tbsp
- sauerkraut1/3 cup
- pastrami-cured smoked salmon4 oz
Method
- 01
Slice the bagel evenly across the equator.
Use a serrated bagel knife, and if the bagel was baked this morning, leave it untoasted to fully appreciate that dense, chewy crumb.
- 02
Apply the moisture barrier to the top half.
Using a proper wrist-twist, apply a thick, even primer coat of cream cheese to the top half of the bagel to create a lipid barrier that keeps the acidic sauerkraut from turning the roof of your sandwich into mush.
- 03
Lay the deli foundation on the bottom half.
Spread the spicy brown mustard evenly, edge-to-edge, across the bottom half of the bagel.
- 04
Wring out the sauerkraut until it is entirely dry.
Place the kraut onto a double layer of paper towels, roll it up, and squeeze it over the sink until it stops dripping before arranging it evenly over the mustard.
- 05
Drape the salmon into ruffled ribbons.
Do not lay the fish flat like a slice of bologna; gently fold the slices onto themselves as you lay them down to trap air and make the bite feel voluminous and luxurious.
- 06
Crown, compress, and cut the sandwich.
Place the schmeared top half onto the salmon and press down firmly with the flat of your palm to lock the ingredients together without crushing the crust, then slice cleanly in half crosswise.
Notes
Do not fear the scoop.
Scooping the doughy interior from the top half of the bagel is a brilliant structural move for a heavyweight delicatessen sandwich, creating a cavernous recess that accommodates the sheer volume of fillings and prevents the salmon from rocketing out the sides.
Respect the schmear-to-protein ratio.
When pairing cream cheese with a highly flavorful, expensive protein, the ideal ratio is one part cream cheese to two parts fish by weight, ensuring you don't drown out the delicate smoke and complex molasses notes of the pastrami rub.
Master the bias slice.
Slicing the salmon on a severe diagonal across the fillet shortens the protein strands, rendering the fish incredibly tender while ensuring every piece retains a thin ribbon of the dark, peppery crust along its edge.