The Heritage Soki Soba
ソーキそば·(sōki soba)
Obaa's Pot on the Stove: Slow-Simmered Weekend Comforts
Drop bone-in pork spare ribs into a hard boil—this is the taste of a Naha kitchen brought to an Ohio suburb, and using an electric pressure cooker is exactly what modern grandmothers do. By parboiling the ribs to remove impurities and saving that clean secondary broth to marry with a quick bonito dashi, you ensure the fat yields in forty-five minutes. Ladle the broth over wavy noodles from the Asian market, and eat.
Ingredients
- pork spare ribs1 1/2 lb
- fresh ginger1 med
- scallions1 bunch
- water10 cup
- soy sauce1/3 cup
- awamori or dry sake1/3 cup
- dark brown sugar3 tbsp
- bonito flakes1 cup
- dried kombu1 small
- kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
- light soy sauce1 tbsp
- fresh thick Chinese egg noodles1 lb
- kamaboko fish cake1/2 med
- beni shoga1/4 cup
- koregusu or chili oil1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and blanch the pork ribs.
Drop the pork ribs into the boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes until the exterior turns completely opaque and gray scum floats to the top. Drain into a colander, wash away any congealed blood or scum under cold running water, and clean the pot.
- 02
Tenderize the pork and create the base stock in a pressure cooker.
Place the washed ribs into the pressure cooker with 6 cups of fresh water, the sliced ginger, and the green scallion tops. Cook on High Pressure for 20 minutes, then allow a natural release for 10 minutes before venting the remaining steam.
- 03
Separate the tender pork from the liquid to clarify the stock.
Remove the ribs and set them aside. Strain the remaining liquid into a bowl, discarding the solids, and place it in the freezer for 15 minutes so the fat solidifies on the surface. Skim off and discard the fat.
- 04
Braise the ribs until heavily glazed.
In a wide skillet, combine the standard soy sauce, awamori, dark brown sugar, and 1/2 cup of your reserved clean pork stock. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, add the ribs, and cook vigorously until the liquid reduces by 80 percent and coats the meat in a sticky, dark glaze.
- 05
Brew the sea dashi.
In a separate pot, bring 4 cups of water and the kombu to a bare simmer. Remove the kombu just before boiling, add the bonito flakes, boil for 30 seconds, then remove from heat and let steep for 2 minutes before straining.
- 06
Marry the two broths to finish the soup base.
In a large pot, combine 4 cups of your clean pork stock with 3 cups of the fresh bonito dashi. Bring to a gentle simmer, season with the kosher salt and light soy sauce, and keep hot.
- 07
Assemble the bowls and serve immediately.
Boil the noodles according to their package directions, drain well, and divide among four deep bowls. Ladle the hot hybrid broth over the noodles, then top with the glazed ribs, kamaboko slices, beni shoga, chopped white scallions, and a dash of koregusu.
Notes
Make your own koregusu.
Fill a small, sterilized glass bottle halfway with dried red chilies, top with a clear, high-proof liquor like vodka or dry sake, and add a tiny pinch of salt. Let it sit in a dark pantry for 2 to 3 weeks until the liquid turns slightly orange and becomes intensely spicy.
The grandmother's alkaline noodle hack.
If you can't find authentic alkaline noodles, spread 1/2 cup of baking soda on a foil-lined baking sheet and bake at 250°F for 1 hour. Boil standard pasta in water spiked with 1 tablespoon of this baked baking soda to perfectly mimic the springy bite of traditional kansui noodles.
From Cook Okinawan in America.