The Herald Square Saddle-Cut 'Mutton' Chop
Chapter 2: The Steaks
This prehistorically sized, twenty-six-ounce cross-section of yearling lamb is an unapologetic nod to the nineteenth-century New York chophouse. It is a secular temple of indulgence on a plate, demanding a rigorous dry-brine, a violent cast-iron sear, and a healthy lack of concern for cholesterol. From the yielding tenderloin to the aggressively charred belly fat, it is a masterclass in texture, designed for the cook who refuses to compromise on the majesty of a properly cooked piece of meat.
Before you start
Dry-brine the chop twenty-four to forty-eight hours prior to cooking.
Pat the saddle chop entirely dry with paper towels. Liberally coat all surfaces—top, bottom, and the fatty belly flaps—with kosher salt. Place on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate uncovered.
Temper the meat.
Remove the chop from the refrigerator exactly one hour before cooking. It must come to room temperature to ensure even cooking through its massive two-inch thickness.
Ingredients
- saddle-cut lamb chop26 oz
- kosher salt2 tbsp
- neutral high-heat cooking oil2 oz
- large-flake sea salt1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Preheat the oven and cast-iron skillet.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place a large, heavy-bottomed cast-iron skillet over high heat and add the high-heat cooking oil.
- 02
Sear the chop aggressively.
Once the oil begins to shimmer and smoke, carefully lay the chop into the skillet. Sear the first side until a deeply browned, crusty exterior forms, approximately 3 to 4 minutes. Flip and sear the opposite side for an additional 3 to 4 minutes.
- 03
Render the belly flaps.
Using heavy-duty tongs, stand the chop up on its sides to render and crisp the fat cap and belly flaps until they achieve a chewy, bouncy, bacon-like consistency.
- 04
Transfer to the oven to roast.
Pour out any excess rendered fat from the skillet, saving it for roasting potatoes if desired. Transfer the cast-iron skillet directly into the 400°F oven and roast for 12 to 15 minutes.
- 05
Probe for precise doneness.
Begin checking the temperature at the 10-minute mark, inserting a digital thermometer probe into the thickest part of the loin without touching the bone. Remove the skillet from the oven when the probe hits exactly 125°F for rare or 130°F for medium-rare.
- 06
Rest the meat.
Transfer the massive chop to a wooden cutting board. Do not touch it for at least 10 to 15 minutes. This resting period is non-negotiable to allow the juices to redistribute and prevent them from flooding the board.
- 07
Carve cross-grain and serve.
Run a sharp boning knife along the central T-bone to remove the two loins and two tenderloins. Slice the meat cross-grain to shorten the muscle fibers for maximum tenderness. Reassemble on a warmed serving platter, ensuring the crispy belly flaps are prominently displayed, and finish with a heavy scattering of large-flake sea salt.
Notes
Water is the enemy of a pristine crust.
The Maillard reaction cannot occur in the presence of surface moisture. The 24- to 48-hour dry-brine guarantees a violent, immediate sear when the meat hits the pan.
Understand USDA grading for your beef.
While this recipe focuses on lamb, for the beef cuts in this chapter, spring for USDA Prime when you want the fat-equals-flavor luxury of a standalone steak. Choice is a fine compromise for everyday dinners, and Select should be avoided entirely for steakhouse applications.
The Luger-style broiler finish.
To recreate that famous Williamsburg sizzle with a porterhouse or strip, sear your steak to 120°F, slice it off the bone, and reassemble it on a sizzle platter with 3 to 4 tablespoons of European butter. Blast it under a scorching broiler for 2 minutes, then spoon-baste the violently bubbling fat over the meat tableside.
Respect the rhythm of the meal.
Before the meat arrives, prime the palate with a bracingly cold martini: 2.5 ounces high-proof London Dry Gin, 0.5 ounces dry vermouth, 1 dash orange bitters, stirred for exactly 45 seconds. Garnish with exactly one or three unstuffed Manzanilla olives—a wrong olive count is an aesthetic abomination and grounds for sending it back.