The Empire Diner Cast-Iron Macaroni & Cheese
Sides, Soups & Salads
If the diner is America's most democratic restaurant, mac and cheese is its great equalizer. The iconic Empire Diner in Manhattan took the humble, blue-plate skeleton of this dish and gave it a heavy-metal upgrade, swapping processed cheese for aggressively sharp cheddar and throwing it into a blazing hot cast-iron skillet. We’re channeling that short-order spirit here: cook the pasta thirsty, whisk that roux like you mean it, and let the cast iron do the heavy lifting to deliver that glorious, crackling, golden-brown crust.
Before you start
Grate the cheddar yourself.
Pre-shredded bagged cheese is heavily coated in anti-caking agents that will violently ruin the smooth texture of your Mornay sauce.
Have your mise en place ready.
The short-order kitchen moves relentlessly fast; measure out your spices and warm your milk before the butter even hits the saucepan.
Ingredients
- elbow macaroni1 lb
- unsalted butter4 tbsp
- all-purpose flour1/4 cup
- whole milk3 cup
- dry mustard powder1 tsp
- nutmeg1/4 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- cayenne pepper1/4 tsp
- water1 tbsp
- extra-sharp white cheddar1 lb
- panko breadcrumbs1 cup
- Parmesan cheese1/2 cup
- unsalted butter2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Preheat the oven to 400°F and heat the cast-iron skillet.
Place a 10- or 12-inch cast-iron skillet inside the oven as it preheats. This mimics the constant, radiant heat of a commercial flat-top, ensuring the bottom immediately begins to fry and caramelize the moment the pasta hits the pan.
- 02
Boil the elbow macaroni until it is just under al dente.
Cook the pasta for exactly two minutes less than the package instructions. Moisture control is crucial here; leaving the pasta rigid and thirsty allows it to absorb the rich dairy fat directly into its cellular structure during the bake, rather than weeping and turning the dish to mush.
- 03
Build the roux to form the sauce's thickening engine.
Melt the 4 tablespoons of butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, then whisk in the flour. Cook continuously for one to two minutes until it takes on a pale blonde color and smells like toasted pie crust.
- 04
Whisk the milk and spices into the roux to create a Béchamel.
In a small ramekin, mix the dry mustard powder, nutmeg, salt, and cayenne with a tablespoon of water to create a slurry. Add this to the roux, then slowly pour in the warm milk in a steady stream, whisking constantly until it simmers and coats the back of a spoon.
- 05
Remove from the heat completely and fold in the sharp cheddar.
Take the saucepan completely off the flame before adding the cheese. Stir in the grated cheddar a handful at a time, letting it melt smoothly into the sauce, then fold in the par-cooked elbow macaroni.
- 06
Toss the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, and melted butter together.
In a small bowl, mix the topping ingredients until the crumbs resemble wet sand.
- 07
Transfer everything to the screaming-hot cast iron and bake for 20 to 25 minutes.
Carefully remove the heated skillet from the oven, pour in the mac and cheese (you should hear an immediate sizzle), and top evenly with the breadcrumbs. Bake until furiously bubbling and the breadcrumbs form a bronzed armor of crunch. Let it rest for 10 minutes before diving in.
Notes
The short-order scrape is the soul of this dish.
When serving, dig your heavy spoon right into the edges and scrape that caramelized, crispy cheese away from the iron—it is the exact flavor of a seasoned diner flat-top.
Respect the emulsion.
Boiling cheese breaks the emulsion and turns it unpleasantly greasy, which is why the sauce comes off the heat before the cheddar goes in, and why the dry mustard powder—a natural stabilizer—is strictly non-negotiable.
From Cook Diner Food at Home.