The Empire Diner Cast-Iron Macaroni & Cheese
Sides, Soups & Salads
If the American diner is the country's most democratic restaurant, then macaroni and cheese is its most democratic dish. The Empire Diner in Manhattan takes the classic short-order skeleton and gives it a heavy-metal upgrade with aggressively sharp cheddar and a heavy hand with the breadcrumbs. Baked in a blazing hot cast-iron skillet that mimics the radiant heat of a commercial flat-top, the edges caramelize into a crispy, chewy perfection that you'll be scraping off the iron long after the midnight rush has faded.
Before you start
Preheat your cast-iron skillet in the oven.
Set your oven to 400°F and place a 10-inch or 12-inch cast-iron skillet inside while it preheats. Heating the iron first guarantees that the moment the macaroni hits the pan, the bottom and edges immediately begin to fry and caramelize, perfectly mimicking a short-order flat-top.
Ingredients
- classic elbow macaroni1 lb
- unsalted butter4 tbsp
- all-purpose flour1/4 cup
- whole milk3 cup
- dry mustard powder1 tsp
- nutmeg1/4 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- cayenne pepper1/4 tsp
- extra-sharp white cheddar1 lb
- Panko or coarse breadcrumbs1 cup
- Parmesan cheese1/2 cup
- unsalted butter2 tbsp
Method
- 01
Boil the elbows until just shy of al dente.
Drop the macaroni into a large pot of heavily salted boiling water and cook for exactly two minutes less than the package instructions, ensuring the pasta remains rigid and thirsty so it absorbs the dairy fat instead of water.
- 02
Build the roux.
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, melt the four tablespoons of butter, sprinkle in the flour, and whisk continuously for one to two minutes until the mixture smells like toasted pie crust and takes on a pale blonde color.
- 03
Whisk the Béchamel.
Create a slurry in a small ramekin with the dry mustard, nutmeg, salt, cayenne, and a tablespoon of water, whisk it into the roux, then slowly pour in the warm milk in a steady stream, simmering until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
- 04
Melt the cheese to create the Mornay sauce.
Remove the saucepan from the heat entirely to prevent the emulsion from breaking, gradually stir in the grated cheddar a handful at a time until smooth, then fold in the par-cooked macaroni.
- 05
Mix the breadcrumb armor.
In a small bowl, toss the breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan, and melted butter together until the mixture resembles wet sand.
- 06
Execute the cast-iron bake.
Carefully remove the screaming-hot cast-iron skillet from the oven, pour the macaroni directly into the pan to initiate an immediate sizzle, top evenly with the breadcrumb mixture, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until the sauce is furiously bubbling and the crust is golden-brown.
Notes
Hit the scrape.
When you pull this out of the oven, use a heavy spoon to aggressively scrape the caramelized, crispy cheese away from the edge of the cast-iron skillet. That scrape is the undeniable soul of diner cooking.
Moisture management is everything.
Cooking the pasta fully in water leaves it waterlogged, causing it to reject the cheese sauce and weep into a mushy casserole. Pulling it early lets the macaroni absorb the rich Mornay directly into its cellular structure as it bakes.
Respect the emulsion.
The dry mustard powder is not just for flavor; it contains mucilage, a stabilizing carbohydrate that prevents the sharp cheddar's fats from separating and turning greasy under the intense heat of the oven.
From Cook Diner Food at Home.