The Chicago "Flaming" Saganaki
Σαγανάκι·(sah-gah-NAH-kee)
Meze & Kefi (The Front Porch Spread)
The flaming cheese that defines Greek-American dining didn't actually come from a sun-drenched taverna in Athens, but rather from a raucous dining room in 1960s Chicago. Beneath the Hollywood-style pyrotechnics and obligatory shouts of 'Opa!' lies a deeply practical, old-world grandmother's secret: a violent dunk in ice water before a flour dredge. This thermal shock creates a structural glue, frying into a rigid, golden exoskeleton that traps the molten interior without letting it collapse into a greasy puddle on your stove.
Before you start
Prepare the ice bath and dredge.
Fill a small bowl with cold water and drop in a few ice cubes. Spread the flour evenly onto a shallow plate.
Armor the cheese.
Fully submerge the thick slab of cheese in the ice water, then immediately press it firmly into the flour. Turn it to coat all sides heavily, then shake off the excess. For softer cheeses like Kasseri or a substitute Provolone, repeat this process a second time to build a thicker, impenetrable crust.
Ingredients
- Kefalograviera cheese8 oz
- all purpose flour1/2 cup
- refined olive oil1/4 cup
- Metaxa or brandy1 1/2 oz
- lemon1 med
- pita bread2 med
Method
- 01
Heat the skillet.
Place a small cast iron skillet or heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. The oil is ready when a tiny pinch of flour sizzles instantly upon contact.
- 02
Sear the cheese.
Carefully lay the flour-dredged cheese into the hot oil. Fry undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes until a deeply golden, crispy crust forms on the bottom. Flip with a sturdy spatula and fry for another 2 minutes on the other side.
- 03
Prepare for the flame.
Once the cheese is soft in the center, turn off your stove. Never pour alcohol directly from the bottle over a hot pan. Have your pre-measured shot of brandy in one hand and the lemon half in the other. If serving at the table, carry the hot skillet to a heat-proof surface clear of low ceilings.
- 04
Ignite the cheese.
Pour the brandy directly over the hot cheese and immediately ignite the fumes with a long-handled lighter. Give it a healthy shout of "Opa!" if you feel so inclined.
- 05
Extinguish and serve immediately.
Let the blue flame burn for 2 to 3 seconds to toast the crust and burn off the raw alcohol. Aggressively squeeze the fresh lemon half over the cheese; the cold acidic juice will immediately kill the flames. Serve instantly with warm pita bread.
Notes
Skip the flames if you prefer.
In Greece, saganaki is rarely flamed. If you want to skip the theatrics on a Tuesday night, simply fry the cheese, hit it with a heavy squeeze of lemon off the heat, and eat. The ice-water crust guarantees it will taste exactly like a homeland taverna.
Finding the right cheese.
Kefalograviera is the gold standard for its perfect balance of salt and high melting point, though Graviera and Kasseri are also traditional. If you cannot find Greek cheeses at your local market, a thick block of sharp Provolone or Halloumi makes an excellent, accessible substitute.
From Cook Greek in America.