The Capital-Style Blistered Asparagus with Lemon Mosto and Hollandaise
Chapter 3: Steakhouse Sides
This is not the moment to count calories. You have just dropped serious cash on a dry-aged Porterhouse, and the side dishes demand the exact same reverence. This is colossal asparagus pushed to the blistering brink in screaming-hot cast iron, dressed with the bright, volatile oils of Ligurian Lemon Mosto, and dragged through a velvet puddle of authentic, hand-whisked Hollandaise. It requires uncompromising technique, a formidable amount of clarified butter, and a forearm willing to burn over a simmering water bath. The result is an unapologetic, high-cholesterol embrace that makes you realize this is exactly what Williamsburg tastes like.
Before you start
Trim and peel the colossal asparagus.
Hold a spear near the base and bend gently until it snaps naturally, discarding the woody end. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the skin off the bottom 1 1/2 inches of each spear to preserve structural integrity while removing the fibrous exterior.
Ingredients
- large egg yolks3 large
- unsalted European-style butter12 oz
- cold water2 tbsp
- fresh lemon juice1 tbsp
- cayenne pepper1/4 tsp
- fine sea saltto taste
- jumbo or colossal asparagus1 1/2 lb
- high-smoke-point oil1 tbsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- freshly cracked black pepper1/2 tsp
- dried porcini mushroom powder1/4 tsp
- authentic lemon mosto olive oil2 tbsp
- fleur de selto taste
- grilled lemon half1 med
Method
- 01
Clarify the butter over low heat.
Melt the unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan without stirring, letting the white whey float and the milky water sink. Remove from heat, skim off the white foam, and carefully decant the golden butterfat into a glass measuring cup, maintaining a temperature of exactly 125°F.
- 02
Prepare the bain-marie.
Bring 1 1/2 inches of water to a rolling boil in a medium saucepan, then immediately reduce the heat to maintain a bare, gentle simmer.
- 03
Whisk the yolks to the ribbon stage.
In a stainless-steel bowl, vigorously whisk the egg yolks, cold water, and lemon juice until frothy. Set the bowl over the simmering water, ensuring the bottom never touches the water, and whisk constantly in a figure-eight motion for 2 to 4 minutes until the mixture is thick, pale, and voluminous.
- 04
Emulsify the clarified butter into the yolks.
Remove the bowl from the heat and rest it on a damp kitchen towel. Frantically whisk in the 125°F clarified butter drop by drop to establish the emulsion, then switch to a slow, steady stream until fully incorporated and undeniably luxurious.
- 05
Season and hold the Hollandaise.
Whisk in the cayenne pepper and season aggressively with fine sea salt. Transfer the sauce to a pre-warmed thermos or hold it over lukewarm water for up to 90 minutes.
- 06
Blister the asparagus in screaming-hot cast iron.
Heat your largest cast-iron skillet over maximum heat until aggressively smoking. Toss the prepped asparagus with the high-smoke-point oil, drop them in a single layer, and leave completely undisturbed for 90 seconds to develop a deep, dark char.
- 07
Finish the blister and season heavily.
Roll the spears over with tongs and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes until vibrant green and slightly yielding, but never drooping. Remove immediately to a platter and toss with the kosher salt, black pepper, and porcini mushroom powder while still steaming.
- 08
Dress, plate, and serve.
Lay the spears parallel on a warmed platter and generously drizzle with the Lemon Mosto, letting the residual heat release the intoxicating citrus aromatics. Finish with a pinch of fleur de sel, garnish with the grilled lemon half, and serve alongside the warm Hollandaise.
Notes
Rescuing a broken Hollandaise.
If the sauce separates, immediately whisk in one tablespoon of rapidly boiling water to shock the fat droplets back into suspension. If completely shattered, whisk a fresh yolk with a splash of lemon juice over the bain-marie until thick, then slowly stream the broken sauce into it like you would the clarified butter.
Synthesizing a Lemon Mosto substitute.
If authentic Ligurian Lemon Mosto is unavailable, gently warm a half cup of high-quality extra virgin olive oil with long strips of Meyer lemon zest (devoid of white pith) to 140°F, steeping for two hours off the heat before straining.