Tetelas de Frijol y Quesillo
Tetelas de Frijol y Quesillo·(teh-TEH-lahs deh free-HOL ee keh-SEE-yoh)
La Despensa y El Comal
Press masa flat, add a smear of black beans, and pinch it into a tight triangle; before protein bars or Tupperware, this was the ultimate traveling meal: a meticulously folded masa pyramid guarding a molten heart of savory black beans and stretched cheese. To pull this off on a weeknight in America requires three strict parameters: your bean paste must be thick so the masa won't rupture, your dough hydrated to the texture of soft modeling clay, and your fat decidedly porky, letting bacon fat step in for rendered lard to provide smoky depth, giving canned beans the rich weight of a day-long simmer. Sear it in a cast-iron skillet until the masa blisters, and eat standing by the stove.
Ingredients
- bacon fat1 tbsp
- white onion1/4 cup
- garlic1 small clove
- jalapeño1 med
- canned black beans15 oz
- dried avocado leaf1 med
- Oaxaca cheese1 cup
- masa harina2 cup
- warm water1 3/4 cup
- fine salt1/2 tsp
- Mexican crema1/4 cup
- queso fresco1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Fry the aromatics and build the base.
Heat the bacon fat in a skillet over medium heat, then sauté the onion, garlic, and jalapeño until deeply golden and softened.
- 02
Blend and reduce the beans to a thick paste.
Puree the undrained black beans in a blender until completely smooth. Pour them into the skillet with the aromatics, toss in the avocado leaf, and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the paste is thick enough to hold its shape without pooling back together when you drag a spoon through it. Remove the leaf and let cool.
- 03
Hydrate the masa.
Whisk the masa harina and salt in a large bowl, then pour in one and a half cups of the warm water. Knead vigorously for a few minutes until the dough feels exactly like soft modeling clay. If the edges crack when pressed flat, add a tablespoon more water. Cover the bowl with a damp towel.
- 04
Press the masa into discs.
Pinch off a golf-ball-sized piece of dough and roll it smooth. Place it between two squares cut from a heavy-duty plastic bag, then press firmly in a tortilla press to form a five-inch circle slightly thicker than a standard taco.
- 05
Fill and fold into triangles.
Place exactly one generous tablespoon of the cooled bean paste in the dead center of the disc and top with a pinch of shredded cheese. Using the bottom layer of plastic to help lift the dough, fold the edges inward one by one to form a three-pointed triangle. Gently pat the seams to seal and flatten the profile.
- 06
Toast on a dry comal.
Carefully peel the tetela off the plastic, lay it seam-side down on a hot, dry cast-iron skillet, and cook until toasted brown spots appear. Flip once, cooking about three minutes per side, then serve immediately topped with crema and crumbled queso fresco.
Notes
Master the tortilla press hack.
Do not attempt to roll masa with a rolling pin or use cling wrap, which wrinkles and tears. Cut a heavy-duty produce bag or large Ziploc into two squares; the thick plastic is the only way to peel the delicate masa away flawlessly.
Do not overfill the tetelas.
A flat triangle cooks evenly on the cast iron. If it is too bulky or lumpy, the corners won't touch the hot metal, leaving you chewing on raw, unpalatable masa dough.
Adapt for missing ingredients.
If you absolutely cannot find dried avocado leaf or epazote at a Latin market, substitute a quarter teaspoon of dried Mexican oregano and a tiny pinch of cumin to add required herbal complexity to the beans. If you cannot find Oaxaca cheese, a block of low-moisture mozzarella melts with the exact same pull.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.