Tequeños de Queso con Crema a la Huancaína
(teh-KEHN-yos deh KEH-so kohn CREH-mah ah lah wahn-kah-EE-nah)
El Lonche (The Evening Bridge)
The smell of wonton wrappers hitting hot oil, followed closely by the earthy, sweet aroma of ají amarillo and garlic toasting in a pan, is the universal trigger for a Peruvian after-school lonche. The tequeño is a beautiful accident of history—a Venezuelan concept adopted by Chinese-Peruvian immigrants, stuffed with melting Andean cheese. Recreating it in an American suburb doesn't require a specialty grocer, just the patience to learn the ultimate family secret: never rush the Huancaína sauce. Cooking down the chili paste and onions until they surrender their sweetness is the difference between a decent condiment and the one your grandmother made.
Before you start
Protect the wrappers.
Keep your stack of wonton wrappers covered with a damp paper towel while you assemble the tequeños so they don't dry out and crack.
Ingredients
- vegetable oil2 tbsp
- red onion1/2 med
- garlic cloves2 large
- ají amarillo paste3 tbsp
- yellow bell pepper1/4 cup
- evaporated milk1 cup
- feta cheese6 oz
- saltine crackers4 med
- wonton wrappers30 med
- Monterey Jack cheese12 oz
- egg1 large
- vegetable oil1 1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Build the grandmother's sofrito.
Place a skillet over medium-low heat and add 2 tablespoons of oil, the chopped red onion, and smashed garlic. Cook slowly for 5 to 7 minutes until the onions are translucent and their sharp bite has mellowed into a fragrant sweetness. Do not let them brown.
- 02
Caramelize the chili paste.
Stir in the ají amarillo paste and yellow bell pepper, cooking for another 3 to 4 minutes until the oil turns a brilliant, sunset orange. This step extracts the flavor compounds and cooks out the raw taste of the chili paste. Remove from heat and let it cool slightly.
- 03
Blend the emulsion.
Transfer the warm chili mixture, including all its golden oil, to a blender. Add the crumbled feta and evaporated milk, blending on high until completely smooth. While the blender is running, drop in the saltine crackers one by one until the sauce thickens to the consistency of heavy cream. Transfer to a bowl and chill in the refrigerator.
- 04
Roll the tequeños.
Lay a wonton wrapper flat, dip your finger in the beaten egg, and trace the entire outer edge of the square. Place a cheese baton near the bottom edge, roll the wrapper tightly over it, and pinch the left and right sides firmly together to seal them. A tight seal is crucial so the cheese doesn't blow out in the hot oil.
- 05
Fry to a blistered crunch.
Heat the remaining vegetable oil in a deep skillet over medium-high heat to 350°F. Working in small batches, fry the tequeños for 1 to 2 minutes per side until deeply golden brown and blistered. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately alongside the chilled Crema a la Huancaína.
Notes
A crucial note on the cheese.
Do not use Mexican 'queso fresco' from an American supermarket for the filling, as it will only heat up and crumble. Monterey Jack or Gouda perfectly replicates the gooey interior of an authentic Peruvian tequeño.
Repurpose your leftovers.
In modern Lima, the tequeño is a vessel for classic Peruvian stews. If you make Lomo Saltado or Ají de Gallina earlier in the week, chop up the leftovers and use them alongside or instead of the cheese.
From Cook Peruvian in America.