Tempe Mendoan
Sarapan Pagi & Gorengan (Morning Rhythms & The Art of the Fry)
Six a.m. by a roadside cart, the wok hisses, and if you order tempe mendoan in Central Java and it arrives crispy, you have every right to send it back. The word mendo translates to half-cooked, this isn't your standard crunchy fritter, it's a limp street food dragged through coriander batter, eaten with a raw bird's eye chili. The trick is a specific spice paste heavy on kencur—a camphor-laced rhizome that cuts through the fat—and a shockingly brief stint in the fryer. Grab a pair of tongs, let the smell of scallion-studded batter hitting hot oil signal the morning rush, and get ready to cook. Be brave, keep the oil hot, and pull them while they still have some flop.
Before you start
Slice the tempeh into extremely thin sheets.
American commercial tempeh comes in thick blocks that will remain cold inside if fried for only a minute. Slice the blocks horizontally so the sheets are no thicker than two to three millimeters.
Prepare the sambal kecap dipping sauce.
In a small bowl, stir together the sweet soy sauce, sliced chilies, diced shallot, minced garlic clove, and lime juice, then set aside so the flavors can mingle while you fry.
Ingredients
- garlic cloves4 med
- whole coriander seeds1 1/2 tsp
- dried kencur powder1/2 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- chicken bouillon powder1 tsp
- ground white pepper1/4 tsp
- turmeric powder1 pinch
- all-purpose flour1 3/4 cup
- white rice flour1/2 cup
- cold water1 3/4 cup
- scallions3 med
- plain soybean tempeh8 oz
- neutral oil1 qt
- sweet soy sauce1/2 cup
- Thai bird's eye chilies5 med
- shallot1 small
- garlic clove1 med
- fresh lime juice1 tsp
Method
- 01
Grind the aromatics into a fine paste.
In a mortar and pestle or small food processor, pound the four cloves of garlic, coriander seeds, kencur powder, salt, bouillon powder, white pepper, and turmeric until smooth, adding a splash of water if necessary to keep things moving.
- 02
Whisk the batter to the consistency of heavy cream.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk the all-purpose flour and rice flour together, then blend in the spice paste and cold water until a smooth batter forms before folding in the sliced scallions.
- 03
Heat two inches of oil to 375°F in a wok or deep cast-iron skillet.
The oil must be plentiful and very hot; a test drop of batter should sizzle aggressively and float immediately to the surface.
- 04
Dip and flash-fry the tempeh for less than a minute per side.
Submerge a thin slice of tempeh into the batter, scooping up a few scallions with it, and slip it carefully into the hot oil. Fry for only 45 to 60 seconds per side so the flour cooks through but the fritter remains soft and distinctly floppy.
- 05
Drain immediately and serve hot.
Use a spider or slotted spoon to transfer the limp tempeh to a wire rack or paper towels. Eat them immediately while steaming hot, dragging them through the sambal kecap.
Notes
Seek out dried kencur powder at an Asian market or online.
This camphor-laced rhizome is the absolute secret to Banyumas flavor. Do not substitute it with standard ginger or galangal, which will ruin the balance; if you absolutely cannot find kencur, simply omit it entirely.