Tavada İzmir Köfte
Tavada İzmir Köfte·(tah-vah-DAH iz-MEER kuf-TEH)
Esnaf Lokantası at Home (The Tradesmen’s Lunch)
If there’s a single smell that yanks a diaspora kid straight back to their mother’s kitchen, it’s the garlic and cumin hitting the pan for İzmir Köfte. Originally baked in massive trays for the bustling tradesmen's cafeterias of the Aegean coast, the real home-cooked version happens in a skillet on a Tuesday night. You hydrate the breadcrumbs with fresh onion juice, you knead the meat until it binds like muscle, and you always fry the potatoes before the beef to keep your oil clean. It’s a one-pan masterpiece of absolute, unpretentious comfort.
Before you start
Mise en place saves the day.
Grate your onions and tomatoes before you start handling raw meat to keep your workspace clean and efficient.
Ingredients
- 80/20 ground beef1 lb
- yellow onion1 large
- plain breadcrumbs or panko1/2 cup
- egg1 large
- garlic3 small cloves
- fresh flat-leaf parsley1/4 cup
- ground cumin1 1/2 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- Aleppo pepper1 tsp
- ground black pepper1/2 tsp
- Yukon Gold or Russet potatoes3 med
- Anaheim or Cubanelle green peppers3 med
- neutral cooking oil1/4 cup
- double-concentrated tomato paste1 1/2 tbsp
- ripe tomatoes2 med
- garlic2 small cloves
- dried oregano1 tsp
- hot water or low-sodium beef broth1 1/2 cup
Method
- 01
Hydrate the binders and knead the meat.
In a large bowl, combine the grated onion with all its juices, minced garlic, breadcrumbs, parsley, cumin, salt, Aleppo pepper, and black pepper. Let it sit for 5 minutes so the crumbs absorb the onion juice. Add the ground beef and egg, wet your hands, and knead vigorously for 5 to 7 minutes. You want the mixture to become sticky and cohesive—this develops the proteins so the meatballs won't disintegrate in the sauce.
- 02
Shape the köfte.
Pinch off pieces of the meat mixture slightly larger than a walnut. Roll them between your wet palms into thick, finger-like ovals about 3 inches long. Set them aside on a plate.
- 03
Par-fry the potatoes, then the peppers.
Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high. Always fry the potatoes first; if you fry the meat first, the spices will burn and ruin your oil. Fry the wedges until they form a golden crust, then remove to a paper towel-lined plate. Blister the peppers in the same oil for a minute or two, then pull them out.
- 04
Sear the meatballs.
Drop the köfte into the hot oil. Sear them rapidly for about 2 minutes per side just to lock in their shape and form a crust, then remove them to a plate.
- 05
Build the tomato broth.
Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of oil from the skillet and lower the heat to medium. Sauté the tomato paste for 2 minutes until it deepens in color, then stir in the grated tomatoes, smashed garlic, and oregano, scraping up any browned bits from the pan. Pour in the hot water or broth, season with a pinch of salt and pepper, and bring to a gentle simmer.
- 06
Simmer and marry the flavors.
Nestle the seared meatballs and golden potatoes back into the simmering sauce in an alternating pattern, scattering the blistered peppers on top. Cover tightly, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes until the potatoes are fork-tender and the sauce is a rich, savory gravy.
Notes
Give the meat a rest.
If you have the time, let the kneaded meat mixture rest in the fridge for 30 minutes or up to overnight. It gives the spices time to permeate the fat.
Use the right meat.
Lean beef will yield tough, dry meatballs. Stick to 80/20 ground beef, or mix in some ground lamb for the necessary fat content.
From Cook Turkish in America.