Tang Hu Lu

Tang Hu Lu

糖葫蘆·(táng-hú-lú)

Ye Shi (夜市) – Recreating the Night Market

A vendor at Raohe night market plunges a bamboo skewer into molten sugar, spinning it fast, lifting it onto wax paper before the syrup smokes. The street-level genius is in the construction, a shattering shell giving way to a bright burst of fruit, a tough cherry tomato anchoring delicate strawberries, or split and stuffed with savory-sweet preserved plum. It’s just sugar, water, heat, and pulling the syrup at a hard crack. Get the syrup hot, work quickly, and bite down while the shell still shatters.

Before you start

  • Prepare your workstation.

    This recipe moves aggressively fast once the sugar hits 300°F. Have your assembled skewers, a sheet of parchment paper, and your thermometer fully ready before you apply heat to the sugar.

Ingredients

  • fresh strawberries1 pt
  • firm cherry tomatoes1 pt
  • Hua Ying Zi preserved plums or soft pitted prunes6 med
  • fine white granulated sugar2 cup
  • water1 cup

Method

  1. 01

    Assemble the skewers.

    For strawberry skewers, thread 2 to 3 strawberries onto a bamboo stick, anchoring the bottom with a single whole cherry tomato so the softer berries don't slide down under the heat. For stuffed tomatoes, tuck a sliver of plum into the slit tomatoes and thread 3 to 4 onto a stick. Lay them on a sheet of parchment paper next to the stove.

  2. 02

    Combine the sugar and water in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat.

    Give the pan a gentle shake so the water moistens all the sugar. Put down your spoon. You must not stir the pot from this point forward, or the sugar will instantly seize into a grainy, sandy mess. Swirl the pan gently by the handle if you need to distribute the heat.

  3. 03

    Boil the syrup until it reaches exactly 300°F on a candy thermometer.

    Clip your thermometer to the side of the pot. This is the hard-crack stage, where the syrup will take on a very faint golden hue. If you lack a thermometer, drop a bead of syrup into ice water—it should instantly harden into a brittle piece of glass that cracks audibly between your teeth.

  4. 04

    Remove from the heat and quickly dip the skewers.

    Tilt the pot so the hot syrup pools to one side. Lay a skewer flat on the bubbling surface, give it a rapid, single two-second twirl to coat evenly, and immediately pull it out. Lingering will cook the fruit into a watery mush that melts the candy from the inside out.

  5. 05

    Cool the skewers on parchment paper.

    The shell will harden into a non-sticky, shattering crunch at room temperature within 3 to 5 minutes. Eat them immediately; putting them in the refrigerator will cause the sugar to weep and melt into a sticky syrup overnight.

Notes

  • Drying the fruit is not optional.

    If the surface of the fruit is even slightly damp, the hydrophobic sugar shell will fail to adhere, sliding off the fruit and creating a sticky, weeping mess. Dry everything twice with paper towels.

From Cook Taiwanese in America.

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