Tamales de Salsa Verde con Cerdo

Before you start

• Cook the pork shoulder and reserve the broth.

  Place the pork, half a white onion, four cloves of garlic, the bay leaves, and a tablespoon of kosher salt into an electric pressure cooker. Cover with the chicken broth, seal, and cook on high pressure for 40 minutes, followed by a 15-minute natural release. Shred the meat with two forks and definitively save the cooking liquid—this strained broth is the liquid gold you will use to hydrate your masa.

• Condition the banana leaves over an open flame.

  Wipe the leaf squares with a damp cloth to remove any agricultural dust. Turn a stove burner to medium-low and slowly pass each square directly over the flame; within seconds, the heat will relax the rigid cellulose, transforming the dull leaf into a glossy, flexible, dark green wrapper.

Ingredients

• frozen banana leaves1 package
• boneless pork shoulder2 lb
• white onion3/4 med
• garlic6 large clove
• bay leaves2
• kosher salt1 1/2 tbsp
• chicken broth4 cup
• tomatillos1 1/2 lb
• serrano peppers3 med
• fresh epazote4 sprig
• neutral oil1 tbsp
• rendered pork lard1 1/2 cup
• masa harina4 cup
• baking powder2 tsp

Method

1. 01

   Build the authentic salsa verde.

   Boil the tomatillos and serrano peppers until they shift from bright green to an olive-yellow hue, being careful not to let them burst. Blend them completely smooth with the remaining quarter onion, two cloves of garlic, and the epazote sprigs.

2. 02

   Fry the salsa to concentrate the flavor.

   Heat a tablespoon of neutral oil in a skillet over medium heat and pour in the blended salsa so that it sizzles upon impact. Simmer it for 10 minutes to reduce its water content, then fold in the shredded pork and set aside.

3. 03

   Whip the lard to aerate the masa.

   In a large bowl, use a hand mixer to aggressively beat the pork lard for about five minutes until it turns stark white and fluffy, resembling buttercream frosting.

4. 04

   Hydrate the masa and perform the float test.

   Beat the baking powder, remaining half tablespoon of salt, and masa harina into the whipped lard, then gradually pour in three and a half to four cups of the warm, reserved pork broth until the batter resembles a thick, spreadable hummus. Drop a marble-sized pinch of the masa into a glass of warm water; if it sinks, keep whipping, but if it bobs to the surface, it is perfectly aerated.

5. 05

   Assemble and fold the tamales.

   Lay a conditioned banana leaf flat, glossy side up, and spread about three tablespoons of masa in the center to form a thin rectangle. Spoon two tablespoons of the salsa-soaked pork into the center, bring the left and right sides of the leaf together to entirely encase the meat, and fold the top and bottom edges down to create a tight, flat rectangular packet.

6. 06

   Steam the tamales under pressure.

   Pour one and a half cups of water into your pressure cooker, insert a steamer trivet lined with leftover leaf scraps, and stack the tamales horizontally in a crisscross pattern to allow the steam to circulate. Cook on high pressure for 40 minutes, let the pressure release naturally for 15 minutes, and allow them to rest briefly before unwrapping.

Notes

• Epazote is the soul of Oaxacan salsa verde.

  Do not substitute cilantro. If you cannot find fresh or dried epazote at your local Latin market, omit it entirely, but understand you are missing the profound, herbaceous hallmark of the homeland.

• Do not skip the float test.

  A heavy, dense tamal is the mark of a rushed cook. Keep beating that lard until the masa is buoyant enough to float in water; this physical aeration is what dictates a tender, spongy crumb.