Tamales de Rajas con Queso y Epazote
Tamales de Rajas con Queso y Epazote·(tah-MAH-less deh RAH-has kohn KEH-so ee eh-pah-SOH-teh)
Tamales en Hoja de Plátano: The Ritual of Wrapping
When most Americans think of tamales, they picture dry northern-style corn husks, but step into a Oaxacan kitchen and the air hangs heavy with the tea-like smoke of toasting banana leaves. This recipe bypasses the generic strip of raw pepper and rubbery cheese found in lesser adaptations, demanding instead a robust tomato and epazote sofrito that bleeds brilliantly into the dough. By aggressively whipping warm broth into the masa, you mimic the famously silky texture of traditional stove-cooked dough without chaining yourself to the pot for an hour on a Tuesday night. It is an unapologetic, uncompromised taste of the homeland, built for a modern kitchen.
Before you start
Prepare the banana leaves by removing the rigid center stems and cutting into 10-inch squares.
Rinse under warm water and wipe completely dry with a clean towel, swiping parallel to the veins so they don't tear.
Toast the leaves over an open flame to release their essential oils and render them pliable.
Pass each square two inches over a medium-low gas flame or hot skillet for a few seconds until the dull green transforms into a glossy emerald.
Ingredients
- neutral oil2 tbsp
- white onion1 large
- jalapeño peppers5 large
- Roma tomatoes3 large
- garlic cloves2 med
- fresh epazote leaves1/2 cup
- kosher salt1 tsp
- Oaxaca cheese1/2 lb
- Panela cheese1/2 lb
- pork lard or vegetable shortening1 cup
- neutral oil1/4 cup
- masa harina4 cup
- baking powder1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 1/2 tbsp
- chicken or vegetable broth4 1/2 cup
- frozen banana leaves1 lb
Method
- 01
Build the foundational rajas sofrito by sautéing the onions and jalapeños.
Heat two tablespoons of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and peppers, cooking for five to seven minutes until softened and translucent.
- 02
Simmer the tomatoes, garlic, and epazote into a thick, rustic stew.
Stir in the minced garlic for thirty seconds, then add the chopped tomatoes, salt, and epazote. Lower the heat and simmer for ten minutes until the tomatoes break down entirely, then set aside to cool.
- 03
Whip the lard and oil until wildly fluffy.
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the lard and a quarter cup of oil on medium-high for about five minutes until it resembles white cake frosting.
- 04
Hydrate the masa aggressively with warm broth.
Whisk the masa harina, baking powder, and salt together, then slowly mix into the whipped fat on low speed. With the mixer running, pour in four cups of warm broth, beating for five minutes on medium until it feels like thick hummus. Add the remaining half cup if the dough feels stiff; it should taste highly seasoned and slightly too salty.
- 05
Assemble the tamales on the toasted banana leaves.
Lay a leaf square flat, glossy side up. Spread a third of a cup of masa into a five-inch square in the center. Spoon a generous tablespoon of the rajas stew down the middle, topping it with two strings of Oaxaca cheese and a baton of Panela.
- 06
Fold the banana leaves into tight, enclosed rectangular parcels.
Fold the left, then the right side of the leaf inward so the masa completely envelopes the filling. Fold the top flap down and the bottom flap up, tucking them under the parcel. Repeat until the masa is gone.
- 07
Steam the tamales over simmering water for up to an hour and a half.
Arrange the tamales horizontally in a prepared steamer pot, stacking them like staggered bricks. Cover with leftover leaves, seal tightly, and steam for seventy-five to ninety minutes.
- 08
Rest the tamales off the heat so the starches can fully set.
Turn off the heat, remove the lid, and let the pot sit for fifteen minutes. The tamales are nearly liquid at peak heat and require this resting time to achieve their signature silken texture.
Notes
Embrace the double-cheese approach.
Oaxaca cheese provides the quintessential stringy melt, but pure Oaxaca will disappear into the hot dough during steaming. Using sturdy batons of Panela ensures the tamal retains its structural bite alongside the rich fat.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.