Tamales de Chepil con Salsa de Pasilla Mixe
Tamales en Hoja de Plátano: The Ritual of Wrapping
Your abuela didn't have a stand mixer, but she had generations of muscle memory. The secret to a tamale that doesn't feel like a brick is air, beaten relentlessly into the lard until it looks like vanilla frosting. Don't stress if you can't find a flight to Oaxaca for fresh chepil—the frozen chipilín at your local Latin market is exactly what diaspora families use to keep this tradition alive on a Tuesday night. Bathed in the aggressive, bacon-like smokiness of pasilla mixe, this is the profound, uncompromised taste of the homeland.
Ingredients
- Roma tomatoes3 large
- garlic2 large cloves
- white onion1/4 med
- pasilla mixe chiles3 med
- banana leaves1 lb
- lard1 cup
- masa harina3 cup
- chicken bone broth2 cup
- frozen chipilín8 oz
- kosher salt1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Char the tomatoes, garlic, and onion in a dry cast-iron skillet.
Heat the skillet over medium-high. Place the ingredients directly on the dry metal, turning occasionally until the tomatoes are deeply blackened and the garlic is soft. Peel the garlic once cool enough to handle.
- 02
Toast the chiles briefly to release their essential oils.
Wipe the skillet clean and press the chiles flat against the hot metal for 15 to 30 seconds per side. Do not let them burn, or they will turn bitter. Submerge in very hot water for 15 minutes to soften.
- 03
Blend the charred aromatics and softened chiles into a thick, velvety salsa.
Transfer the charred vegetables and rehydrated chiles to a blender with a splash of the chili-soaking liquid. Season aggressively with salt and blend until smooth. Set aside.
- 04
Toast the banana leaf squares over an open flame until pliable.
Pass each square slowly over a medium-low gas burner until the color shifts from dull to a vibrant, glossy green. If you have an electric stove, toast them briefly in a hot, dry skillet.
- 05
Vigorously beat the lard until pale and fluffy.
Use a stand mixer or relentless arm strength to whip the lard for 10 to 15 minutes. It must transform into a light, frosting-like consistency. Drop a tiny piece in cold water; if it floats, you have incorporated enough air.
- 06
Gradually work the masa harina and chicken broth into the aerated lard.
Knead the mixture until it resembles a deeply hydrated, thick buttercream, then season generously with salt. Gently fold in the drained chipilín leaves until evenly distributed.
- 07
Assemble the tamales and steam until tender.
Spoon about 1/3 cup of the masa into the center of each leaf. Fold the sides over and tuck the ends under to create a neat rectangular package. Arrange them upright in a steamer basket over boiling water. Steam for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving unwrapped and generously bathed in the salsa.
Notes
Sourcing Pasilla Mixe
Pasilla mixe is a rare, smoke-dried chili from the Sierra Norte of Oaxaca. It is deeply smoky and intensely hot, fundamentally different from standard supermarket pasillas. If you cannot order them online, substitute one ancho chile and two morita chiles to approximate the flavor.
From Cook Oaxacan in America.