Tamales Colados de Sartén
Tamales Colados de Sartén·(tah-MAH-les coh-LAH-dos de sar-TEN)
Sunday Morning Rituals: Cochinita Pibil & The Suburban Pib
To recreate the sensory landscape of a Sunday morning in Mérida inside a Midwestern suburb, you must respect the Maya technique. The secret to the most elegant tamal in the Mexican repertoire isn't just what is inside, but what you take out. By pressing watered-down masa through a cloth, you discard the heavy corn fiber and extract pure starch. Cooked on the stove in a pool of hot lard, it undergoes a miraculous molecular shift from a watery mess to a silky, pudding-like dough. Wrapped in fire-toasted banana leaves with a spoonful of rich achiote gravy, the result is an ethereal, gelatinous marvel that tastes exactly like home.
Ingredients
- chicken thighs1 1/2 lb
- achiote paste4 tbsp
- low-sodium chicken broth3 cup
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic cloves4 small
- Roma tomatoes2 med
- fresh epazote2 sprig
- salt1 tbsp
- masa harina3 cup
- chicken broth4 cup
- pork lard1 cup
- fresh epazote leaves3 large
- salt1 1/2 tsp
- frozen banana leaves16 oz
- Roma tomato1 med
- red onion1/4 med
- fresh epazote leaves10 small
Method
- 01
Extract the pure starch for the masa.
In a blender, process the masa harina and 4 cups of chilled chicken broth in batches until completely smooth and watery. Drape a double layer of cheesecloth over a large bowl and pour the mixture through it, forcefully twisting and squeezing the cloth to press the liquid out. Discard the dry fibrous clump left behind and reserve 1/2 cup of the strained starchy liquid for the gravy.
- 02
Simmer the achiote broth and chicken.
In a large pot, dissolve the crumbled achiote paste into the 3 cups of low-sodium chicken broth. Add the chicken thighs, sliced white onion, smashed garlic, quartered tomatoes, epazote sprigs, and 1 tablespoon of salt, simmering for 25 to 30 minutes until the chicken easily pulls apart.
- 03
Prepare the meat and the k'ol gravy.
Remove the cooked chicken, shred it with two forks, and set it aside. Strain the remaining red achiote broth, discarding the boiled vegetables, and return 2 cups of the liquid to a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the reserved 1/2 cup of strained masa liquid and simmer constantly until it thickens into a glossy, rich gravy called k'ol.
- 04
Sizzle epazote in hot lard to build the base flavor.
Place a deep cast iron skillet or heavy Dutch oven over medium heat and melt the pork lard. Carefully drop in 3 large epazote leaves, letting them sizzle in the hot fat for 30 seconds to infuse the oil with a distinctly Yucatecan aroma.
- 05
Cook the masa colada on the stovetop until gelatinized.
Pour the large bowl of strained masa liquid into the hot lard, add 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, and stir constantly. Do not panic when the mixture initially looks broken; after 15 to 20 minutes of continuous scraping with a wooden spoon, it will miraculously shift into a thick, shiny, pudding-like paste that pulls slightly away from the sides of the pan.
- 06
Fire-roast the banana leaves to make them pliable.
Cut the thawed banana leaves into 12-inch squares, discarding the hard central veins. Using tongs, slowly pass each square directly over a medium open stove flame until the dull leaf releases its natural oils and turns glossy and bright green, which prevents it from shattering during folding.
- 07
Assemble the tamales with the masa, meat, and gravy.
Lay a glossy banana leaf square flat and spread a half-cup of the warm pudding-like masa into a small rectangle in the center. Top with shredded chicken, two tablespoons of the k'ol gravy, a slice of tomato, julienned red onion, and a single small fresh epazote leaf.
- 08
Fold and tie the parcels securely.
Bring the bottom edge of the banana leaf up over the filling, fold the top down to overlap, and tuck the sides underneath to form a tight, flat rectangular package. Tie the tamal gently with a thin strip of excess banana leaf or butcher's twine.
- 09
Steam the tamales and let them rest.
Line a steamer basket with leftover banana leaves, stack the tamales flat, cover tightly, and steam over medium heat for 60 minutes. Crucially, turn off the heat and let them rest in the steamer for at least 20 minutes before serving, allowing the delicate starch to fully set into its signature ethereal texture.
Notes
Pork lard is essential for true authenticity.
While you can substitute vegetable shortening or oil infused with toasted garlic for dietary reasons, nothing replicates the rich, deep flavor of true manteca de cerdo.
The grandmother's coin trick.
Place a clean coin at the bottom of your steamer pot. If the water boils away, the coin will stop rattling, alerting you before you burn the tamales.