Tamalada de Lote Pequeño

Before you start

• Simmer the pork to build the broth.

  Combine the pork chunks, onion half, head of garlic, bay leaves, and 1 tbsp salt in a large Dutch oven. Cover with 8 cups of water, bring to a rapid boil, skim the foam off the top, and simmer covered for 2 to 2 1/2 hours until the meat shreds effortlessly with a fork.

• Strain and guard the liquid gold.

  Transfer the pork to a board to cool, then shred it. Strain the remaining broth into a container, discarding the spent solids. Guard this broth with your life—you need 4 cups of it for the masa tomorrow. Store the meat and broth in the fridge overnight.

• Toast and hydrate the chiles.

  Press the Guajillo, Ancho, and Morita chiles flat onto a hot, dry skillet over medium heat for 10 to 15 seconds per side until fragrant. Transfer to a bowl, cover with boiling water, and steep for 20 minutes until perfectly soft.

• Blend and fry the adobo.

  Blend the softened chiles, 1 cup of their soaking water, the 3 peeled garlic cloves, cumin, oregano, and a heavy pinch of salt until completely smooth. Melt 1 tbsp lard in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Pour the puree into the hot fat—it should sizzle aggressively—and fry for 5 minutes. Fold in the shredded pork and simmer until the sauce heavily coats the meat without weeping. Cool and refrigerate.

Ingredients

• pork shoulder2 lb
• white onion1/2 large
• head of garlic1 large
• bay leaves2 med
• kosher salt1 tbsp
• dried Guajillo chiles6 med
• dried Ancho chiles2 med
• dried Morita chiles2 med
• garlic cloves3 med
• ground cumin1/2 tsp
• Mexican oregano1/2 tsp
• pork lard1 tbsp
• dried corn husks8 oz
• masa harina para tamales4 cup
• high-quality pork lard1 1/4 cup
• baking powder1 1/2 tsp
• kosher salt1 1/2 tsp

Method

1. 01

   Rehydrate the corn husks.

   Submerge the dried husks in a large pot or sink of very hot tap water, weighing them down with a heavy plate. Soak for 30 to 45 minutes until they are entirely pliable.

2. 02

   Aerate the lard to guarantee a fluffy tamal.

   This is the non-negotiable secret to lightness. Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, beat the room-temperature lard on medium-high for 3 to 5 minutes until it transforms from dense and heavy to stark, airy white.

3. 03

   Build and hydrate the dough.

   Whisk the coarse masa harina, baking powder, and 1 1/2 tsp salt together in a bowl. With the mixer running on low, gradually alternate adding the dry mixture and 3 cups of your reserved, warmed pork broth to the whipped lard. Beat on medium for 3 to 5 minutes until it resembles thick, spreadable buttercream, drizzling in up to 1 more cup of warm broth if it feels stiff.

4. 04

   Perform the float test.

   Drop a pea-sized ball of whipped masa into a glass of cool water. If it floats to the surface, it is perfectly aerated. If it sinks like a stone, beat it for two more minutes. If it stubbornly hovers in the middle but feels light and frosting-like, do not panic—humidity happens. Proceed with confidence.

5. 05

   Spread the masa onto the smooth side of the husks.

   Pat a rehydrated husk dry and locate the smooth side—the rough, ridged side will stubbornly cling to your cooked tamal. Spread a 1/4-inch thick layer of masa onto the wide end, leaving a 1-inch border on the sides and leaving the narrow, pointy top half completely bare.

6. 06

   Fill, fold, and bundle.

   Spoon 2 generous tablespoons of the chilled pork filling straight down the center axis of the masa. Fold the right side of the husk toward the center, overlap it with the left side like a brochure, and fold the empty pointy tail end up against the seam to permanently seal the bottom.

7. 07

   Arrange vertically and steam.

   Set up a steamer pot with water just below the rack. Stand the tamales upright, leaning them against each other snugly enough to stay vertical but loose enough for steam to circulate. Drape leftover husks over the top to trap steam, cover tightly, and simmer over medium heat for 1 to 1 1/4 hours.

8. 08

   Rest before the reveal.

   Extract one tamal with tongs and let it rest on the counter for 10 minutes to allow the starches to set. If the husk peels away cleanly to reveal a smooth, perfectly intact tamal, you are done. If it clings desperately and feels mushy, steam the batch for another 15 minutes.

Notes

• Reheat with respect.

  Steaming leftover tamales for 15 minutes returns them to their original glory. For a true Mexican breakfast, sear them directly in their husks on a hot cast-iron pan until the husk chars, imparting a deep, smoky edge to the masa inside.

• Masa harina matters.

  Ensure your masa harina explicitly says 'para tamales' on the bag. The coarse grind is entirely responsible for the fluffy, open texture of a proper tamal; fine tortilla masa will turn them into dense bricks.