Tallarines Verdes con Bistec
(tah-yah-REE-nes VEHR-des kohn bees-TEK)
Almuerzo Turned Supper (The Heavy Hitters)
When 19th-century Ligurian sailors landed in Peru, they wanted pesto. Pine nuts and Parmesan were out of the question, so they adapted, swapping in local pecans, Andean queso fresco, and evaporated milk to make ends meet. The result isn't a cheap knockoff; it's an evolution. This is an unapologetically rich, earthy green sauce born of necessity, built on a caramelized sofrito base rather than raw garlic. Piled high alongside a fiercely seared, soy-marinated steak whose pan juices bleed right into the noodles, it’s the ultimate working-class heavy hitter of the Peruvian weeknight.
Before you start
Synchronize your workflow.
Marinate the steak while the pasta water comes to a boil. Make the sauce while the pasta cooks. Sear the meat right at the end so everything hits the plate piping hot.
Ingredients
- thin-sliced sirloin steak1 lb
- soy sauce1 tbsp
- red wine vinegar1 tbsp
- garlic paste1 tsp
- ground cumin1/2 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- vegetable oil1 tbsp
- spaghetti1 lb
- olive oil2 tbsp
- red onion1/2 med
- garlic cloves3 large
- pecans1/3 cup
- fresh baby spinach6 cup
- fresh basil leaves2 cup
- evaporated milk1/2 cup
- Mexican queso fresco5 oz
- Parmesan cheese1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Marinate the steak.
Place the beef on a plate and massage the soy sauce, red wine vinegar, garlic paste, cumin, salt, and black pepper into the meat. Let it sit at room temperature while you build the rest of the meal to guarantee a proper sear.
- 02
Boil the pasta and reserve the starchy water.
Drop the spaghetti into a large pot of heavily salted boiling water and cook until al dente. Before draining, scoop out half a cup of the cooking water and set it aside—this starch is the secret to a glossy emulsion.
- 03
Caramelize the sofrito.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook the red onion and smashed garlic for 5 to 7 minutes until soft, translucent, and just beginning to brown at the edges. Don't skip this; blending raw alliums will ruin the sauce.
- 04
Wilt the greens in the residual heat.
Turn off the heat entirely and throw the spinach and basil directly into the hot pan. Toss them for about 60 seconds until they turn a vibrant, dark green. This eliminates their raw bitterness without the hassle of a separate blanching pot.
- 05
Blend the salsa verde.
Scrape the entire contents of the skillet—greens, onions, garlic, and oil—into a blender. Add the toasted pecans, evaporated milk, queso fresco, and Parmesan, blending on high until completely smooth and creamy.
- 06
Emulsify the pasta.
Pour the green sauce over the drained pasta in the empty pot over low heat. Add a splash of the reserved pasta water and toss vigorously with tongs until the sauce clings luxuriously to every strand.
- 07
Sear the steak and build the plate.
Wipe out the skillet, add the vegetable oil, and place it over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Sear the steaks for just 2 minutes per side to achieve a dark crust. Plate the steak alongside a generous mound of the green noodles, pouring any savory pan juices directly over the meat and pasta.
Notes
The saltine cracker trick.
If your sauce looks a bit too watery after blending, drop in 2 or 3 standard saltine crackers and blend again. It's a classic grandmother's secret for perfect thickening.
The true Lima touch.
If you have access to a Latin market, drop a tablespoon of jarred ají amarillo paste into the blender with the greens. It won't make it overtly spicy, but it adds an unmistakably warm Peruvian backbone.
From Cook Peruvian in America.