Tallarines Rojos con Pollo
(tah-yah-REE-nes RO-hos kon PO-yo)
Almuerzo Turned Supper (The Heavy Hitters)
This is the ultimate Peruvian comfort food, born from Italian immigrants attempting a ragù in the Andes. The result isn't a substitute; it's a masterpiece. The grandmothers' secrets are practical and brilliant: ají panca for earthy depth, blended carrots for sweetness, and steeped dried mushrooms for a haunting, nostalgic aroma. In a modern American kitchen, dried porcinis perfectly replicate the traditional Andean fungi, delivering a fierce, umami-heavy red sauce that demands to coat every single noodle.
Before you start
Steep the mushrooms.
Place the dried porcini mushrooms and bay leaves in a small bowl, pour in the boiling water, and steep for 15 minutes.
Chop and strain.
Fish out the softened mushrooms and chop them finely, reserving the dark soaking liquid but leaving the gritty last teaspoon behind.
Blend the vegetable base.
Combine the tomatoes and carrot in a blender, pureeing until completely smooth to bypass hours of slow simmering.
Season the chicken.
Coat the chicken pieces generously with the salt, pepper, 1 tablespoon of the ají panca paste, and 1 teaspoon of the garlic paste.
Ingredients
- dried porcini mushrooms1/4 cup
- dried bay leaves2 med
- boiling water1/2 cup
- roma tomatoes1 lb
- carrot1 large
- bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces4 large
- pasta de ají panca3 tbsp
- garlic paste4 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- vegetable oil2 tbsp
- red onion1 large
- tomato paste2 tbsp
- dried oregano1/2 tsp
- ground cumin1/4 tsp
- chicken broth1 cup
- spaghetti1 lb
- parmesan cheese1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Sear the chicken fiercely.
Heat the vegetable oil in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Place the chicken skin-side down and sear until deeply golden and crusty, about 5 to 7 minutes per side, then remove to a plate and leave the precious fat and browned bits in the pot.
- 02
Build the aderezo.
Lower the heat to medium, drop the diced red onion into the rendered chicken fat, and sauté slowly until translucent. Scrape up the fond as you go, then stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of ají panca, the remaining garlic paste, and the cumin, cooking for 2 minutes until the oil turns a deep, brick red.
- 03
Caramelize and simmer.
Stir the tomato paste into the onions for a minute before pouring in the blended tomato-carrot puree. Toss in the chopped mushrooms, bay leaves, the reserved mushroom soaking liquid, and the dried oregano, rubbing it between your palms to release its oils.
- 04
Braise the chicken.
Nestle the seared chicken and any accumulated juices back into the pot, pour in the chicken broth, and bring to a gentle boil. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 30 to 35 minutes until the meat is meltingly tender and the sauce has reduced to a rich, dark stew.
- 05
Coat the pasta.
While the sauce reduces, boil the spaghetti in heavily salted water just until al dente. Drain the pasta, pull the chicken out of the sauce, and dump the noodles directly into the pot, tossing vigorously until every strand is heavily stained red.
Notes
Balance the acidity.
If your fresh tomatoes lean too acidic after simmering, a traditional grandmother's trick is to stir in a tiny pinch of sugar or a splash of evaporated milk at the very end to round out the harsh notes.
From Cook Peruvian in America.