Tacos Rápidos de Cecina Enchilada con Salsa Macha de Chapulín

Before you start

• Freeze thicker pork cuts for easier slicing.

  If you can only find standard-thickness pork chops instead of cutlets, freeze them for 20 minutes until firm. This allows you to slice them horizontally into the razor-thin ribbons required for authentic cecina.

Ingredients

• dried guajillo chiles7
• dried ancho chile1
• garlic cloves5
• apple cider vinegar3 tbsp
• dried Mexican oregano1/2 tsp
• dried thyme1/4 tsp
• whole cloves2
• ground Mexican cinnamon1/4 tsp
• dried avocado leaves2
• kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
• black peppercorns4
• thin-sliced pork cutlets1 1/2 lb
• lard or neutral oil1 tbsp
• neutral oil1/2 cup
• dried chiles de árbol12
• dried chiles morita2
• toasted chapulines or roasted pumpkin seeds1/2 cup
• sesame seeds1 tbsp
• corn tortillas12 small
• Oaxaca cheese1 cup
• white onion1/2 med
• fresh cilantro1/2 bunch
• limes2 med

Method

1. 01

   Toast and soak the adobo chiles.

   Heat a dry cast-iron skillet over medium heat and press the guajillo and ancho chiles flat against the pan for 15 seconds per side until fragrant but not blackened. Transfer to a bowl, cover with boiling water, and soak for 15 minutes until soft, then drain completely.

2. 02

   Blend the thick adobo paste.

   In a blender, combine the softened chiles, 3 cloves of garlic, vinegar, oregano, thyme, cloves, cinnamon, crumbled avocado leaves, 1 teaspoon of salt, and peppercorns. Blend into a thick, mud-like paste, adding a tablespoon of water only if the blades get stuck. Do not water it down, or it will steam the meat in the pan instead of searing.

3. 03

   Enchilar la carne.

   Aggressively massage the adobo paste into every crevice of the dried pork cutlets. You can cook this immediately, or let it cure in the fridge for up to 24 hours to mimic the depth of traditionally dried market cecina.

4. 04

   Fry the salsa macha aromatics.

   In a medium saucepan, heat the half cup of neutral oil over medium-low heat. Add the remaining 2 cloves of garlic and fry until golden before transferring the garlic to a clean blender jar.

5. 05

   Toast the salsa chiles carefully.

   Add the chiles de árbol and morita to the hot oil, stirring constantly for 15 to 30 seconds until they toast and brighten. Immediately remove from the heat so they don't burn and turn irreparably bitter, then let the oil and chiles cool for 10 minutes.

6. 06

   Blend and finish the salsa macha.

   Pour the cooled oil and toasted chiles into the blender with the fried garlic, the remaining half teaspoon of salt, and half of the chapulines or pumpkin seeds. Pulse until the chiles break down into coarse flakes and the oil turns a terrifying, beautiful red. Transfer to a jar and manually stir in the remaining chapulines and sesame seeds for maximum crunch.

7. 07

   Sear the cecina hard and fast.

   Heat your largest cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until smoking. Add the lard and lay the pork cutlets flat in batches to avoid overcrowding. Sear for roughly 90 seconds per side until the adobo caramelizes with slightly charred edges, then transfer to a cutting board and chop into bite-sized pieces.

8. 08

   Assemble the tacos.

   Warm the corn tortillas on a hot comal, melting a pinch of Oaxaca cheese onto each one if you like. Top with the chopped cecina, diced onion, cilantro, a squeeze of lime, and a heavy spoonful of the crunchy salsa macha.

Notes

• Sourcing dried avocado leaves.

  Dried avocado leaves impart an irreplaceable anise and hazelnut note to Oaxacan food. They are easily found at local Latin markets or online. If you absolutely cannot find them, omit them, but do not skip them if you want the true taste of Oaxaca.