Su Rou Tang
酥肉汤·(sū ròu tāng)
Grandma's Hands: Doughs, Broths, and Comfort
If you ask a local in Sichuan what tastes like home, they won't point you to a fiery bowl of chili oil; they'll point to this. Born from rural outdoor village banquets, this soup relies on a brilliant culinary trick: strips of pork are massaged with toasted Sichuan peppercorns, battered in coarse sweet potato starch, and double-fried into a shatteringly crisp armor. The real magic happens when that pork is plunged into a delicate, ginger-laced winter melon broth. The crust hydrates, transforming into a silky, savory envelope that clings to the juicy meat inside, offering bursts of citrusy numbness with every bite. The secret to making this restorative bowl work on a busy Tuesday is to fry a large batch of the pork on a Sunday. It freezes perfectly, meaning true comfort is never more than ten minutes away.
Before you start
Peel the dark green waxy skin from the winter melon and scoop out the soft, seed-filled pith.
The remaining firm, stark white flesh will act as a sponge to absorb the flavorful broth.
Finely mince one tablespoon of ginger for the pork marinade, and smash a second piece for the broth.
Smashing the ginger with the flat side of a knife releases its aromatic oils instantly into the soup base.
Ingredients
- boneless pork shoulder1 lb
- whole Sichuan peppercorns1 tbsp
- Shaoxing wine1 tbsp
- fresh ginger1 tbsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- white pepper1/2 tsp
- coarse sweet potato starch1 cup
- eggs3 large
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- water2 tbsp
- neutral oil1 qt
- light chicken broth4 cup
- winter melon1 lb
- fresh ginger1 med piece
- scallions2 med
- toasted sesame oil1 tsp
Method
- 01
Toast the Sichuan peppercorns until fragrant and coarsely crush them.
Heat a dry skillet over medium-low and toss the peppercorns for 2 to 3 minutes until they release a wisp of smoke. Cool them, then use a rolling pin or mortar and pestle to crack them into rustic shards that will provide distinct bursts of citrusy numbness. Do not grind them to a fine dust.
- 02
Massage the crushed peppercorns, Shaoxing wine, minced ginger, salt, and white pepper into the pork strips.
Work the aromatics aggressively into the meat with your hands until the liquid is fully absorbed, then let it rest at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes.
- 03
Whisk the eggs, sweet potato starch, and salt together until the batter falls in a slow, thick ribbon.
Sweet potato starch feels stubborn at first, but keep stirring. If the mixture is entirely too stiff, add water a tablespoon at a time until it resembles the consistency of thick Greek yogurt. Toss the marinated pork into the bowl, coating every piece heavily.
- 04
Fry the battered pork in 320°F oil for 4 to 5 minutes until cooked through and pale golden.
Lower the strips into the hot oil one by one, letting excess batter drip off first. Work in batches to avoid crowding the pan, then remove the pork to a wire rack or paper towel-lined baking sheet.
- 05
Increase the oil temperature to 360°F and flash-fry the pork for 45 to 60 seconds.
This brief second fry forcefully expels excess oil and creates a deep golden-brown, armor-like crust. Drain the crispy pork well. At this point, the meat can be eaten as a snack or frozen for later use.
- 06
Boil the chicken broth, smashed ginger, scallion whites, and winter melon until the melon is semi-translucent.
Bring the liquid to a rolling boil first, letting the aromatics infuse for 5 minutes, then add the winter melon. Cover and simmer over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes until the melon is easily pierced with a fork.
- 07
Drop the fried pork into the simmering soup for three to five minutes before finishing with sesame oil and scallion greens.
Do not overboil. The goal is for the sweet potato starch crust to hydrate and become slippery on the outside while retaining a slight chew. Adjust seasoning, stir in the sesame oil, and serve immediately in a large communal bowl.
Notes
Never substitute sweet potato starch with cornstarch for this recipe.
Cornstarch dissolves immediately in boiling broth, turning the soup into a cloudy gravy and leaving the meat naked. Coarse sweet potato starch is essential; it undergoes a textural transformation, clinging to the meat and becoming pleasantly silky and chewy.
Fry the pork in large batches ahead of time.
Deep-frying on a weeknight is a hassle. Once double-fried, the pork freezes perfectly in zip-top bags. Toss the frozen pieces directly into the boiling soup for an effortless weeknight meal.
Zucchini makes a passable substitute for winter melon in a pinch.
Cut it into similar chunks, but reduce the simmering time. Zucchini cooks much faster and only needs 3 to 4 minutes before adding the pork.
From Cook Sichuan in America.