Steakhouse Creamed Spinach with Béchamel
Chapter 3: Steakhouse Sides
This is the dish that separates a respectable home-cooked dinner from an evening in the dark, wood-paneled, high-cholesterol pleasure temples of the great American steakhouses. It is unapologetically rich, relying on proper French technique, an infusion of aromatics, and enough butter and heavy cream to make your cardiologist weep. Do not attempt to lighten this dish. Serve it alongside a dry-aged, table-basted porterhouse, and yes, this is exactly what Williamsburg tastes like.
Ingredients
- whole milk1 1/2 cup
- heavy whipping cream1/2 cup
- dried bay leaf1 large
- whole cloves3 small
- whole black peppercorns1/2 tsp
- fresh baby spinach2 1/2 lb
- unsalted butter5 tbsp
- shallot1 large
- garlic2 small
- all-purpose flour3 tbsp
- full-fat cream cheese3 oz
- Parmigiano-Reggiano1/2 cup
- Gruyère cheese1/2 cup
- freshly grated nutmeg1/4 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- white pepper1/4 tsp
Method
- 01
Infuse the dairy to build the foundational background complexity.
In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the whole milk, heavy cream, bay leaf, cloves, and peppercorns over medium-low heat. When the mixture just begins to steam and small bubbles form around the edges, remove it from the heat. Cover tightly with a lid and steep for 20 minutes before straining the liquid into a pouring vessel, discarding the solids.
- 02
Violently extract the water from the spinach.
Heat one tablespoon of the butter in a massive cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Wilt the fresh spinach in batches, transferring the dark green mass to a colander to cool. Once it is safe to handle, take handfuls of the spinach and squeeze them over the sink until your knuckles turn white and absolutely no moisture remains, then roughly chop the dry spinach balls.
- 03
Sweat the aromatics in the remaining butter.
Wipe out the skillet, return it to medium heat, and melt the remaining four tablespoons of butter. Sauté the minced shallots for three to four minutes until completely translucent and sweet, lacking any raw bite, then add the minced garlic and cook for exactly thirty seconds until fragrant.
- 04
Build the white roux.
Sprinkle the flour evenly over the shallot and butter mixture. Using a wooden spoon, stir constantly for one to two minutes. The mixture will look like wet sand; the goal is to neutralize the raw flour taste without taking on any brown color.
- 05
Emulsify the béchamel.
While whisking constantly, pour in the warm, strained dairy in a slow, steady stream to ensure no lumps form. Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer and allow it to thicken for three to five minutes, stirring frequently, until it coats the back of a spoon and you can draw a clean line through it.
- 06
Fortify the sauce with the cheeses and spice.
Reduce the heat to its absolute lowest setting and whisk in the softened cream cheese until it melts into a velvety smooth liquid. Stir in the freshly grated nutmeg, kosher salt, and white pepper, then turn off the heat entirely and fold in the Parmigiano-Reggiano and Gruyère until fully integrated.
- 07
Marry the spinach and the béchamel.
Fold the dry, chopped spinach into the cheese sauce, using a sturdy spoon to break up the clumps and ensuring every single leaf is coated in the thick matrix. Taste, adjust the salt or nutmeg if needed, and serve immediately alongside a sizzling steak.
Notes
A note on substituting frozen spinach.
If you absolutely must skip the fresh baby spinach, three 10-ounce packages of frozen chopped spinach can be substituted. They must be thawed completely. Skip the skillet wilting entirely and proceed directly to the violent wringing step.
Make-ahead protocol.
This dish can be prepared entirely up to two days in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Reheat gently in a saucepan over medium-low heat, adding a splash of heavy cream to loosen the cold béchamel.