Steakhouse Creamed Spinach
Chapter 3: Steakhouse Sides
Creamed spinach isn't a virtuous vegetable course meant to offset a massive dry-aged steak. When the shallots hiss in a hot cast-iron skillet, we pull no punches, demanding high-fat European butter, a pint of heavy cream, and the sharp, salty bite of real Parmigiano-Reggiano. Grate whole nutmeg directly over the pan, eat it while the cream is still bubbling, and do not attempt to lighten this with skim milk—embrace the butter.
Ingredients
- fresh baby spinach2 1/2 lb
- unsalted premium European butter4 tbsp
- pancetta2 oz
- shallot1 large
- garlic clove3 med
- all-purpose flour2 tbsp
- heavy cream1 1/2 cup
- full-fat cream cheese3 oz
- Parmigiano-Reggiano1/2 cup
- whole nutmeg1/2 tsp
- kosher salt1 tsp
- ground white pepper1/2 tsp
Method
- 01
Blanch the spinach in heavily salted boiling water.
Drop the fresh baby spinach into a large stockpot of rolling boil in batches, stirring just until wilted, about 45 to 60 seconds. Immediately transfer the wilted spinach to a colander and rinse under cold running water to lock in the bright green color.
- 02
Wring the spinach mercilessly until entirely dry.
Take handfuls of the cooled spinach and squeeze them violently over the sink. Wrap the spinach in a clean kitchen towel and wring it out until absolutely no more water drips out. Place the dry spinach on a cutting board and chop it roughly into half-inch pieces.
- 03
Render the pancetta in a large cast-iron skillet.
Cook the diced pancetta over medium-low heat until the fat renders and the meat is crisp, about 5 to 7 minutes.
- 04
Build the aromatic base.
Add the butter to the skillet to melt alongside the pancetta fat over medium heat. Add the minced shallot and cook until soft and translucent, about 4 minutes, then add the minced garlic and cook for 60 seconds until fragrant.
- 05
Create the roux.
Sprinkle the flour over the alliums and stir continuously with a wooden spoon for 2 to 3 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste; it should smell slightly nutty.
- 06
Emulsify the cream.
Slowly whisk the heavy cream into the roux. Bring to a gentle simmer, whisking frequently, until the mixture begins to thicken and coat the back of a spoon, about 4 to 5 minutes.
- 07
Incorporate the cheeses and aromatics.
Reduce the heat to low. Whisk in the cream cheese until completely melted and smooth, then stir in the kosher salt, white pepper, and freshly grated nutmeg.
- 08
Fold in the spinach and finish the dish.
Fold the chopped, dry spinach into the bubbling cream sauce, stirring vigorously to break up any clumps. Once the spinach is heated through, remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and serve immediately alongside your steak.
Notes
Water is the enemy of creamed spinach.
If you do not wring every last drop of moisture out of the blanched spinach, it will leach into the skillet and break your cream sauce. Squeeze it until you think you're done, and then squeeze it again.
Fresh nutmeg is non-negotiable.
Pre-ground nutmeg is a dusty shadow of the real thing. Grating whole nutmeg on a microplane releases volatile oils that provide the signature flavor of a true steakhouse side.