Spanakorizo

Spanakorizo

Σπανακόρυζο·(spa-nah-KO-ree-zoh)

Lathera (The Weeknight Backbone)

Tuesday at 6 p.m., a half-cup of olive oil warms in a heavy Dutch oven, the spinach collapses, sweet onions, a massive pile of fresh dill, and sharp lemon melt into the short-grain rice, proving this is a masterpiece of restraint rather than the restaurant stereotype of Greek food drowning in garlic and heavy cream. Toast the rice to keep the grains intact, and let it rest under a towel off the heat—that's how you get that perfect, silky texture. Crumble a block of feta over the bowls while the rice is still steaming.

Before you start

  • Wash the leeks thoroughly.

    Leeks hold a lot of sand and grit between their layers. Slice them first, then submerge them in a bowl of cold water, agitate, and lift them out before using.

Ingredients

  • extra virgin olive oil1/2 cup
  • yellow onion1 large
  • leek1 med
  • scallions5 med
  • Arborio rice1 cup
  • fresh spinach1 1/2 lb
  • fresh dill1/2 cup
  • warm water1 1/2 cup
  • lemon1 large
  • kosher salt1 tsp
  • black pepper1/2 tsp

Method

  1. 01

    Sweat the aromatics in hot oil.

    Heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the chopped yellow onion and leek, sautéing until they are soft, translucent, and beginning to release their sweetness, about 5 to 7 minutes. Toss in the scallions and cook for 1 minute more.

  2. 02

    Toast the rice to seal the starch.

    Add the rinsed Arborio rice to the pot. Stir continuously for 2 minutes to coat the grains in the oil. This seals the exterior starch, ensuring the grains stay distinctly separated rather than turning into an unappetizing paste as they cook.

  3. 03

    Wilt the spinach into the pot.

    Add the spinach in large handfuls. It will look like an absurd amount, but it will quickly shrink. Use tongs to toss the spinach with the hot rice and onions until it wilts down enough to make room for the next handful. Season generously with the kosher salt and black pepper.

  4. 04

    Simmer gently with the dill and water.

    Once all the spinach is wilted, stir in the fresh dill and pour in the warm water. Spinach releases a massive amount of its own liquid, so don't be tempted to add more water at this stage. Bring to a gentle boil, immediately reduce the heat to low, and cover the pot tightly. Simmer undisturbed for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the rice is tender.

  5. 05

    Finish with lemon, oil, and a crucial rest.

    Remove the pot from the heat. Uncover and quickly stir in the lemon juice and the remaining 1/4 cup of raw extra virgin olive oil. Place a clean kitchen towel flat across the top of the pot, then press the lid down over the towel. Let the pot rest undisturbed for 15 minutes. The towel traps the steam and absorbs excess moisture, allowing the rice to plump up and the sauce to thicken into a luxurious, creamy consistency.

Notes

  • Serve with feta and bread.

    Spanakorizo is traditionally a complete meal. Serve it warm or at room temperature with a block of good sheep's milk feta and a crusty loaf of bread to soak up the olive oil.

  • Don't skip the raw olive oil.

    Adding the second measure of extra virgin olive oil off the heat is a traditional technique that preserves the oil's peppery bite and richness, which would otherwise cook out.

From Cook Greek in America.

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