Spanaki me Revithia
Σπανάκι με ρεβύθια·(spa-NAH-kee meh reh-VEE-thee-ah)
Nistisima (The Fasting Table)
Pour a heavy glug of olive oil into the Dutch oven, add a can of chickpeas, and wait until the spinach collapses. Orthodox fasting strips the kitchen of meat and dairy. Deprivation is not in the Greek vocabulary. This stew relies on tachinolemono, a velvety emulsion of sesame tahini and lemon juice tempered with hot broth. The bright, nutty citrus cuts right through the greens. Tear off a crust of bread, drag it through the bowl, and eat.
Before you start
Rinse canned beans aggressively.
The metallic canning liquid will ruin the flavor of the broth. Rinse the chickpeas thoroughly under cold water before braising them in the oil to force them to absorb the traditional flavors.
Ingredients
- extra-virgin olive oil1/3 cup
- yellow onion1 large
- scallions4 med
- garlic cloves2 med
- carrot1 med
- ground cumin1 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- canned chickpeas30 oz
- vegetable broth3 cup
- mature flat-leaf spinach16 oz
- fresh dill1/2 cup
- tahini3 tbsp
- lemon juice1/2 cup
- lemon zest1 tbsp
Method
- 01
Build the flavor base.
Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium heat, then add the yellow onion and carrot, sautéing for 5 to 7 minutes until soft and sweet. Add the scallions and garlic, cooking for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant, then stir in the cumin, salt, and pepper to toast for 30 seconds.
- 02
Braise the chickpeas.
Add the rinsed chickpeas and stir well to coat them in the spiced oil, cooking for 2 to 3 minutes to absorb the aromatics. Pour in the hot vegetable broth so it just barely covers the chickpeas, bring to a gentle boil, then lower to a simmer and cover with the lid slightly ajar for 20 minutes to soften the beans and release their starches.
- 03
Wilt the greens.
Remove the lid and stir in the chopped spinach in batches until it wilts into the hot broth. Add the fresh dill, then simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes until the spinach is tender but vibrantly green before removing the pot from the heat completely.
- 04
Emulsify the tahini and lemon.
In a medium bowl, whisk the tahini and lemon juice until it seizes into a stiff paste, then whisk in 2 tablespoons of room temperature water to smooth it out. Slowly stream in two ladles of hot broth from the pot, whisking constantly to temper the mixture into a creamy, warm sauce.
- 05
Incorporate the sauce to achieve the final meloma.
Pour the emulsion back into the pot and gently swirl or stir to incorporate without returning to a boil, which could split the sauce. Taste and adjust the salt or lemon, stir in the lemon zest, and let the pot sit for 10 minutes before serving.
Notes
Sourcing the right spinach.
Avoid plastic clamshell baby spinach if possible, as it will disintegrate into the broth. Mature bunched spinach provides the robust, earthy flavor and hearty texture this peasant dish demands.
Managing citrus acidity.
American lemons vary wildly in acidity and size. Start with the juice of one and a half lemons, taste the tempered sauce, and add the rest if you desire that sharp, bright Greek profile.
From Cook Greek in America.