Spaghetti con Patate
L'Arte dell'Arrangiarsi: Weeknight Cucina Povera
Forget the massive Sunday roasts and the heavy cream; spaghetti con patate is a working-class survival tactic that thrives on a Tuesday night at 6 p.m. A rolling boil does the heavy lifting, coaxing a velvety sauce out of nothing but supermarket Russet potatoes, broken spaghetti, and starchy pasta water until the potatoes collapse. Mash the softest chunks directly into the olive oil with a battered wooden spoon, and eat immediately.
Before you start
Break the dry spaghetti by hand before you start cooking.
Gather the dry spaghetti and snap it into roughly 1 1/2-inch to 2-inch pieces. Breaking the pasta exposes more surface area of the inner core, which facilitates a rapid release of starch into the cooking liquid.
Ingredients
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- yellow onion1 med
- garlic clove1 large
- Yukon Gold potatoes1 1/2 lb
- crushed tomatoes1/4 cup
- hot water or low-sodium vegetable broth4 cup
- kosher salt1 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- dry spaghetti1/2 lb
- Pecorino Romano cheese1/2 cup
- flat-leaf parsley2 tbsp
- plain unseasoned breadcrumbs1/2 cup
- extra-virgin olive oil1 tbsp
- garlic powder1/4 tsp
- salt1/4 tsp
Method
- 01
Sauté the onion and garlic gently to coax out their natural sweetness without browning.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the diced onion and smashed garlic clove, cooking for 5 to 7 minutes until the onion is deeply translucent and fragrant. Once the garlic is golden, you can leave it in for a rustic texture or pull it out if you prefer a milder flavor.
- 02
Coat the potatoes in the aromatic oil.
Add the cubed potatoes to the pot, stirring well so they are completely coated in the onion and olive oil mixture. Let them cook for 3 to 4 minutes to soften the edges.
- 03
Build and stain the simmering broth.
Pour in the crushed tomatoes to simply stain the liquid with a hint of acidity and a warm color. Pour in the 4 cups of hot water or broth, 1 teaspoon of kosher salt, and the black pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and let it simmer for about 15 minutes until the potatoes are barely fork-tender.
- 04
Smash a handful of the potatoes against the pot to release their starches.
Once tender, take a wooden spoon or fork and intentionally crush some of the potato cubes against the side of the pot. This mechanical action releases the potato starch into the broth, which is the crucial secret to building the creamy emulsion.
- 05
Cook the broken spaghetti directly in the starchy potato broth.
Drop the broken spaghetti into the simmering liquid and stir immediately so it doesn't clump. Leave the lid off and let the pasta cook directly in the broth, stirring frequently just like you would a risotto. As the pasta cooks for 10 to 12 minutes, it will absorb the liquid and release its own starch, transforming the thin broth into a rich, glossy cream.
- 06
Toast the breadcrumbs to create the traditional textural garnish.
While the pasta is cooking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs, garlic powder, and a pinch of salt. Toast, stirring constantly, for about 3 minutes until deeply golden brown and nutty, then immediately transfer to a small bowl so they don't burn.
- 07
Finish the dish off the heat with cheese and fresh parsley.
Once the pasta is al dente and the sauce is creamy, turn the heat off completely to prevent the cheese from clumping. Vigorously stir in the grated Pecorino Romano and the parsley until the cheese melts into the starchy liquid. Ladle into shallow bowls and finish with a heavy dusting of toasted breadcrumbs and a drizzle of your best raw olive oil.
Notes
Never substitute Russets for Yukon Gold potatoes.
Russet baking potatoes lack the necessary structure and will disintegrate into absolute mush before the pasta finishes cooking. Yukon Golds provide the perfect balance of starch and waxy integrity.
Keep a kettle of hot water nearby while the pasta cooks.
Because different brands of pasta absorb water at different rates, keep an eye on the pot. If it looks dry or begins sticking to the bottom before the pasta is tender, splash in a half cup of hot water.
Adapt the cheese to what you can find.
Sicilians traditionally use Caciocavallo or Pecorino Siciliano for this dish. If your supermarket doesn't carry Caciocavallo, a mix of Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano perfectly replicates the sharp, umami profile required to cut through the heavy starches.