Spaghetti al Limone
(spah-GEH-tee ahl lee-MOH-nay)
Cucina Povera on a Tuesday: Grandma's Weeknight Survival Guide
If you order lemon pasta at a typical American chain, you'll be handed a cloying bowl of heavy dairy that bludgeons the citrus into submission. But walk into a traditional home on the Amalfi coast, where the air smells of salt and local lemons, and you'll find the elegant, thrifty magic of genuine cucina povera. True Spaghetti al Limone uses absolutely zero cream. It relies on a brilliant cold infusion of lemon peel and olive oil that violently emulsifies with hot, starchy pasta water into a glossy, vibrant sauce. It takes exactly as long to make as the pasta takes to boil, delivering an uncompromised, sun-drenched taste of the old country on a busy weeknight.
Before you start
Wash the lemons thoroughly and peel carefully with a vegetable peeler.
American lemons carry more bitterness in their white pith than the sweet Amalfi varieties, making it vital to extract only the yellow skin.
Ingredients
- dried spaghetti1 lb
- organic unwaxed lemons2 med
- garlic1 large clove
- extra virgin olive oil1/3 cup
- unsalted butter2 tbsp
- fresh basil or flat-leaf parsley1 handful
- Parmigiano-Reggiano1 cup
- kosher salt1 tbsp
- black pepper1 tsp
Method
- 01
Combine the lemon peels, smashed garlic, torn herbs, a generous pinch of kosher salt, and olive oil in a large serving bowl.
Let the mixture sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes to allow the lemon's essential oils to bloom into the olive oil without heat destroying their delicate, fresh flavors.
- 02
Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a rolling boil and cook the spaghetti until perfectly al dente.
The pasta should still retain a distinct bite, as it will soften slightly when tossed forcefully with the hot sauce.
- 03
Remove and discard the garlic and lemon peels from the infused oil, then whisk in the reserved lemon juice and butter cubes.
The butter provides a slight, necessary buffer to the sharp acidity of standard American lemons, bridging the flavor gap to the sweeter Amalfi varieties.
- 04
Scoop out one and a half cups of starchy pasta water, drain the pasta, and immediately transfer it to the cold bowl of infused oil.
Add a half cup of the hot pasta water and the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, tossing the spaghetti vigorously with tongs so the melting fat and starch forcefully bind into a thick, glossy cream. Add more pasta water if the sauce looks tight.
- 05
Serve immediately directly from the bowl.
Finish with fresh black pepper, an extra dusting of cheese, and a quick grating of fresh lemon zest if desired.
Notes
Always seek out bronze-die extruded pasta.
It looks rough and dusty in the bag, a texture that guarantees it will release the heavy starch required to emulsify the sauce naturally without breaking.
Never use pre-grated parmesan cheese.
The anti-caking agents used in commercial pre-grated cheeses will instantly ruin the delicate emulsion we are trying to build.
From Cook Italian in America.