Soutzoukakia Smyrneika
Σουτζουκάκια Σμυρναίικα·(soo-tzoo-KAH-kya smeer-NAY-ka)
To Kiriakatiko Trapezi (The Sunday Supper & Sto Fourno)
These aren't your standard Greek meatballs. Brought over by the refugees of Asia Minor in the 1920s, true soutzoukakia demand an audacious hand with cumin and absolutely no onions in the meat. Using Ruby Port as a stand-in for traditional Mavrodaphne wine gives the panade its deep, sweet resonance. Take the extra ten minutes to shallow-fry them; it creates a structural crust that seals in the juices and leaves a dusting of flour to naturally thicken the rich, cinnamon-laced tomato sauce. Serve it piping hot over a bed of buttery puréed potatoes.
Before you start
Set aside wine for shaping.
Keep a small bowl with a splash of sweet wine at your workstation. Dipping your fingers while rolling the meat adds a final layer of sugar that caramelizes beautifully in the pan.
Ingredients
- 80/20 ground beef1 1/2 lb
- stale white bread3 large
- Ruby Port or sweet red wine1/3 cup
- garlic3 large clove
- egg1 large
- ground cumin1 1/2 tbsp
- extra virgin olive oil2 tbsp
- kosher salt1 1/2 tsp
- black pepper1/2 tsp
- all-purpose flour1/2 cup
- neutral oil1/4 cup
- extra virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- yellow onion1 large
- garlic2 med clove
- tomato paste1 tbsp
- dry red wine1/4 cup
- crushed tomatoes28 oz
- water or beef broth1 cup
- cinnamon stick1 med
- bay leaf1 med
- whole allspice berries3 small
- sugar1 tsp
Method
- 01
Prepare the sweet wine panade.
Tear the crustless bread into chunks, pour the Ruby Port over it, and let it sit for five minutes before wringing out the excess liquid with your hands.
- 02
Knead and rest the meat.
Combine the soaked bread with the ground beef, minced garlic, egg, cumin, 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt, and pepper, vigorously kneading for several minutes to mimic a traditional double-grind. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes to hydrate the bread and marry the flavors.
- 03
Shape the soutzoukakia.
Dip your fingers lightly into a small bowl of sweet wine and roll the meat into oblong, cigar-like cylinders about the length of a finger.
- 04
Dust and sear for a structural crust.
Roll each meatball lightly in flour, shaking off the excess, and shallow-fry in hot oil for a minute or two per side just to brown the exterior without cooking them through. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate.
- 05
Build the aromatic sauce.
In a wide pot, sauté the grated onion in 3 tablespoons of olive oil until sweet. Stir in the smashed garlic and tomato paste until toasted, then deglaze with the dry red wine. Add the crushed tomatoes, broth, cinnamon, bay leaf, allspice, and sugar to simmer.
- 06
Braise gently without stirring.
Nestle the seared meatballs into the simmering sauce and gently shake the pot in a circular motion to coat them. Never stir with a wooden spoon or they will break. Cover partially and simmer on low for 25 to 30 minutes.
Notes
The golden rule of onions.
Authentic Smyrna meatballs never contain onion in the meat mixture—only copious amounts of garlic. The onion belongs strictly in the sauce to differentiate them from standard keftedes.
Ditch the dry breadcrumbs.
Breadcrumbs make for a dense meatball. A panade of stale white bread soaked in sweet wine ensures the canonical melt-in-the-mouth, aerated texture.
Do not stir the pot.
Once the delicate meatballs are nestled in the sauce, put the wooden spoon away. Grasp the handles and gently shake the pot to prevent breaking the meat.
From Cook Greek in America.