Southekayi Tambuli
ಸೌತೆಕಾಯಿ ತಂಬುಳಿ·(soh-tay-kah-yee tahm-boo-lee)
Tropical Summer Respite: No-Cook Heritage Suppers
The crackle of hot oil hitting fresh curry leaves signals one thing: dinner is almost ready. But before the heavy, fiery sambars hit the table, there is Tambuli. This cold, restorative cucumber curry was engineered by generations of South Indian grandmothers to extinguish the heat of a sweltering coastal summer and prepare the stomach for what is to come. It is a raw, brilliantly simple dish, save for a blistering five-second tempering of spices at the end. The absolute cardinal rule here is to use coconut oil for that tempering; hot ghee will instantly solidify into unpalatable, waxy pebbles when it hits the cold yogurt. Pour this generously over a steaming mound of rice and taste exactly what home feels like.
Before you start
Thaw the coconut in advance.
Frozen grated coconut from the Indian market is the secret weapon here. Let it sit on the counter for ten minutes while you chop the cucumber, or microwave a chunk for fifteen seconds.
Use thin-skinned cucumbers.
Persian or English hothouse cucumbers require no peeling or deseeding, perfectly mimicking the tender inner flesh of indigenous Indian varieties and saving you precious weeknight minutes.
Ingredients
- Persian cucumber1 cup
- frozen grated coconut1/2 cup
- Thai green chili1 med
- cumin seeds1/2 tsp
- black peppercorns1/4 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- plain whole milk yogurt1 cup
- cold water3/4 cup
- virgin coconut oil2 tsp
- black mustard seeds1/2 tsp
- cumin seeds1/2 tsp
- dried red chili1 med
- fresh curry leaves10 med
- asafoetida1/8 tsp
Method
- 01
Blend the aromatic base.
In a small blender jar or smoothie cup, combine the chopped cucumber, thawed coconut, green chili, the first half-teaspoon of cumin seeds, peppercorns, salt, and a tiny splash of water. Blend on high until it forms a silky, pale-green paste.
- 02
Whisk the buttermilk.
In a serving bowl, vigorously whisk the whole milk yogurt and cold water together until completely smooth and thin, resembling crepe batter. Do not do this in the blender, or the mechanical shear will cause the dairy to split.
- 03
Combine the curry.
Scrape the cucumber-coconut paste into the whisked buttermilk and stir gently to combine, tasting for salt.
- 04
Bloom the mustard seeds.
Heat the coconut oil in a small skillet or tadka pan over medium-high heat. When shimmering, add the mustard seeds and wait for them to physically pop, which releases their nutty flavor and neutralizes their bitterness.
- 05
Finish the tempering.
As soon as the popping slows, instantly add the remaining half-teaspoon of cumin seeds, broken red chili, and curry leaves. The leaves will violently crisp in seconds; immediately kill the heat, stir in the asafoetida, and pour the sizzling spiced oil directly over the cold yogurt.
Notes
Ghee is strictly prohibited.
Because this is a cold dish, using ghee for the tempering will cause the saturated animal fats to instantly solidify into waxy granules upon hitting the chilled yogurt. Always use coconut oil or a neutral cooking oil.