South 10th Street Veal Marsala
Chapter 4 — Chicken / Veal / Eggplant Parm + Mains
If you walk past the brick facade at 762 South 10th Street in Philadelphia, you’re stepping into the epicenter of American red-sauce royalty. In those old-school dining rooms, veal Marsala is a fast-paced line-cook ballet, but you aren't running a restaurant—you're feeding a houseful of loud people on a Sunday. So we’re taking that unapologetic, mushroom-heavy flavor and applying it to a slow-simmered Dutch oven stew. It breaks down into a dark, glossy gravy that demands a steamy, foil-wrapped loaf of garlic bread to mop the bowl clean.
Before you start
Tie the rosemary and sage together with kitchen twine.
This makes it significantly easier to fish the woody herb stems out of the dark gravy before you serve it.
Mix the flour, salt, and pepper in a shallow bowl.
You will use this seasoned dredge to lightly coat the veal right before searing.
Ingredients
- veal shoulder or veal chuck3 lb
- all-purpose flour1/2 cup
- kosher salt1 tbsp
- black pepper1 tsp
- extra-virgin olive oil3 tbsp
- thick-cut pancetta4 oz
- yellow onion1 large
- garlic4 med clove
- cremini mushrooms1 lb
- dried porcini mushrooms1 oz
- hot water2 cup
- dry Marsala wine1 1/2 cup
- low-sodium beef stock2 cup
- fresh rosemary2 sprig
- fresh sage4 leaf
- unsalted butter3 tbsp
- fresh parsley1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Steep the dried porcini mushrooms in the hot water for thirty minutes.
Lift the softened mushrooms out, squeeze them dry, and roughly chop them. Pour the remaining soaking liquid through a coffee filter or paper towel to remove any grit, and reserve this dark, earthy liquid for the braise.
- 02
Toss the dried veal cubes in the seasoned flour and brown them heavily in olive oil.
Working in batches in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, sear the floured meat until a deep, dark crust forms, about 5 to 7 minutes per batch. Move the browned veal to a sheet pan and set aside.
- 03
Lower the heat, render the pancetta until crispy, and sear the fresh mushrooms.
Add the pancetta to the pot and cook for 5 minutes. Toss in the quartered cremini mushrooms, letting them sit undisturbed for 4 minutes to get a hard sear. Stir in the diced onions, smashed garlic, and chopped porcini, cooking until the onions are translucent.
- 04
Pour in the dry Marsala and scrape up every bit of fond from the bottom of the pot.
Turn the heat up to medium-high. Let the wine furiously reduce by half to burn off the harsh alcohol and concentrate the sugars and aromatics, which takes about 4 minutes.
- 05
Return the veal to the pot with the reserved mushroom liquid, stock, and herbs, then simmer on low for at least two hours.
Bring the pot to a rolling boil, drop the heat to the absolute lowest setting, cover the Dutch oven, and let it lazily bubble until the meat yields completely to a fork.
- 06
Remove the pot from the heat, discard the herbs, and vigorously stir in the cold butter.
If the sauce is too thin, simmer it uncovered for 15 minutes before adding the butter. Emulsifying the cold butter gives the gravy the luxurious, velvety sheen of a high-end restaurant dish. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper.
- 07
Bring the whole Dutch oven to the table, garnished with fresh parsley.
Serve over buttery mashed potatoes or wide egg noodles, flanked by a steamy, foil-wrapped loaf of garlic bread to ensure no drop of the Marsala gravy is left behind.
Notes
Dry Marsala is non-negotiable.
Do not buy supermarket cooking wine or sweet Marsala used for desserts. Go to a liquor store and buy a dry (secco) Marsala, or your dinner will taste like a pastry.
From Cook Red Sauce at Home.