Sopa de Pescado Seco en Torta
Sopas de Domingo: The Slow Simmer of the Weekend
When the hot oil spits in a cast-iron skillet, a block of dried salt cod is swaddled in a deeply savory, achiote-stained masa before frying; here, the Lempa River acts as a strict culinary border, dictating this intense Friday supper. In forty-five minutes, it becomes a survival meal you can easily conquer on a weeknight, provided you soak the fish and fry the cakes on Sunday, and for the uninitiated in the house, make a few tortas mudas—crispy masa patties fried without the fish—so no one misses out on the comfort. Slide the cakes into the simmering broth, turn the heat down, and let them drink.
Before you start
Desalinate the fish.
Place the dried fish in a large bowl, cover with cold water, and soak for at least 6 hours, or ideally overnight in the refrigerator, changing the water once if possible to draw out the heavy salt cure.
Portion and debone.
Rinse the softened fish and cut into 2 to 3-inch chunks. Carefully remove the central backbone, fins, and head, reserving these bones for the broth. Leave the flesh chunks as boneless as possible.
Ingredients
- bone-in dried salted fish1 lb
- masa harina2 cup
- Roma tomatoes2 med
- green bell pepper1/2 large
- white onion1/2 med
- garlic2 large cloves
- ground cumin1 tsp
- achiote powder1 tsp
- eggs3 large
- vegetable oil3/4 cup
- water8 cup
- white onion1/2 med
- fresh cilantro1 med bunch
- shrimp bouillon2 tbsp
- dried oregano1 tsp
- masa harina1 tbsp
- Yukon Gold potato1 large
- canned chickpeas15 oz
- green cabbage1/2 med head
- lime1 med
Method
- 01
Extract the fish stock.
In a large soup pot, combine the reserved fish bones and head, 8 cups of water, the intact half onion, and half of the cilantro. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 25 minutes. Strain the liquid into a large bowl, discard the solids, and wipe the pot clean.
- 02
Blend the aromatics.
In a blender, combine the Roma tomatoes, green bell pepper, chopped half onion, garlic, cumin, achiote, and a quarter cup of the strained fish broth. Blend until entirely smooth.
- 03
Mix the masa.
In a large bowl, combine the 2 cups of masa harina, the blended tomato mixture, a quarter cup of vegetable oil, and the eggs. Knead by hand until it resembles soft playdough, adding a splash of broth if it feels too dry.
- 04
Form the tortas.
Flatten a handful of masa in your palm like a thick tortilla, place a piece of boneless fish in the center, and fold the edges over to completely seal the fish inside. Repeat with the remaining fish.
- 05
Fry the tortas.
Heat the remaining half cup of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the tortas until deeply golden and crispy on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes per side, then drain on paper towels.
- 06
Build the broth.
Return the strained fish stock to the soup pot and bring to a simmer. Stir in the shrimp bouillon and oregano. Whisk the tablespoon of masa harina with a little cold water to make a slurry, then stir it into the broth to lightly thicken it.
- 07
Simmer the vegetables and tortas.
Add the diced potatoes and simmer for 8 minutes until they begin to soften. Gently slide the fried tortas, chickpeas, and cabbage into the broth. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer gently for 5 to 7 minutes—do not rapidly boil, or the tortas will break apart. Serve in wide bowls, garnished with the remaining cilantro and a squeeze of lime.
Notes
Weeknight Strategy.
The desalination soak and the frying of the tortas can be completely knocked out on a Sunday afternoon. Keep the fried tortas and the strained fish broth in the fridge, and assemble the final soup on a weeknight in under 30 minutes.
Tortas Mudas.
Because salted fish has an intensely pungent flavor, Salvadoran grandmothers often fry leftover seasoned masa into patties without the fish inside, known as 'mute cakes'. It's an excellent way to introduce children to the comforting broth without the strong seafood bite.
Sourcing the Fish.
While macarela is traditional, standard bone-in bacalao (salted dried cod) works perfectly and is easily found in standard American supermarkets. Just ensure you buy it bone-in so you can extract that essential stock.