Somin Champuru
ソーミンチャンプルー·(sōmin chanpurū)
The American Uchinanchu Pantry (Foundations)
Drop a bundle of dried somen into boiling water for exactly two minutes. Built from the sparse pantry of a storm-battered island—dry wheat noodles and canned tuna—this is survival food. Though widely known as Somin Champuru, traditional Okinawan cooks call it Somin Tashiya, because true Champuru requires tofu. The secret to perfection isn't in the pan, it's in the sink. Undercook the noodles, wash the hell out of them to strip the starch, and use the oil straight from the tuna can to coat them. Do that, and you avoid a gummy mess known as puturu. Render a tin of Spam until the skillet smokes, then toss everything together. Keep the noodles moving, pulling the pan from the heat the second they start to stick. Eat immediately.
Before you start
Mise en place is absolute.
Because this dish cooks in under three minutes once the heat is on, have all your vegetables sliced and your seasonings measured next to the stove before you start.
Do not drain the tuna.
Open the can of tuna, but keep the oil inside. That oil is infused with umami and is strictly required to lubricate the noodles so they don't stick.
Ingredients
- dried Japanese somen noodles150 g
- tuna packed in oil5 oz
- yellow onion1/4 med
- carrot1/3 small
- garlic chives1/2 bunch
- sesame oil1 tsp
- bonito soup stock powder1/2 tsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- soy sauce1 tsp
- black pepper1/8 tsp
- dried bonito flakes1 small packet
Method
- 01
Boil the noodles for exactly 40 seconds.
Bring a large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil, drop in the somen, and stir immediately to prevent clumping. Pull them out at half the package time while they still have a serious, firm bite.
- 02
Shock the noodles and strip the starch.
Instantly drain the noodles and run them under cold water, vigorously rubbing and massaging them between your hands for about 15 seconds to strip away the sticky surface starch.
- 03
Coat the noodles in the tuna oil.
Drain the washed noodles aggressively, shaking the colander to remove excess water, then move them to a bowl. Pour just the oil from the tuna can directly over the noodles and toss until every strand is slick and protected.
- 04
Flash-sauté the aromatics.
Heat a large frying pan or wok over medium-high heat with a splash of sesame oil, then toss in the carrots and onions for a minute until barely translucent.
- 05
Add the tuna and chives.
Toss the reserved tuna meat and garlic chives into the pan for just thirty seconds to wake up the flavors.
- 06
Marry the noodles and season.
Add the oiled somen to the pan, sprinkle over the dashi powder, salt, and pepper, and use tongs to rapidly toss and aerate the noodles for no more than one minute.
- 07
Finish with soy sauce and smoke.
Turn off the heat, drizzle the soy sauce around the edges of the hot pan so it toasts, toss one last time, and serve immediately beneath a handful of dancing bonito flakes.
Notes
Oil-packed tuna is non-negotiable.
American water-packed tuna will completely ruin the mechanical lubrication of the noodles. If you only have water-packed, you must drain it dry and substitute a tablespoon of toasted sesame oil to coat the noodles.
Respect the ratios.
Resist the American urge to turn this into a vegetable-heavy stir fry. Bell peppers and zucchini will dump water into the pan and steam your noodles into a gummy mush.
The dashi hack.
First-generation kitchens survive on powdered Hon-Dashi for a quick hit of umami. If you want to avoid commercial powders, a splash of chicken broth or mushroom powder works in a pinch.
From Cook Okinawan in America.