Sinigang na Baboy
(see-nee-GANG nah BAH-boy)
Sabaw for the Soul (What Lola Made When We Were Sick)
When a Midwestern winter drags on, or a long shift leaves the soul ragged, nothing cures the chill quite like the sharp, mouth-watering tang of tamarind. This is the undisputed king of Filipino comfort food. Purists might demand pounding fresh green tamarind pods for hours, but any honest Lola will hand you a yellow packet of Knorr soup mix—it is the great equalizer of the diaspora kitchen. The true ancient secret lies elsewhere: hugas bigas. Using the starchy, cloudy water saved from washing your dinner rice thickens the soup, tempering the blistering sourness with a subtle, velvety sweetness.
Before you start
Harvesting the Hugas Bigas.
When preparing your white rice for dinner, discard the first cloudy rinse. Add fresh water, swish vigorously until milky white, and reserve 8 cups of this second wash to act as the base for your soup.
Source the right cut.
Ask your butcher to cut pork spare ribs across the bone into 1 1/2-inch pieces. Mixing these ribs with chunks of pork belly provides the perfect balance of marrow-infused broth and rich fat.
Ingredients
- neutral cooking oil1 tbsp
- pork spare ribs or pork belly2 lb
- yellow onion1 med
- Roma tomatoes3 med
- fish sauce2 tbsp
- rice wash8 cup
- taro root2 med
- daikon radish1 med
- Knorr Tamarind Soup Mix1 packet
- yardlong beans or green beans1 small bunch
- Chinese or Japanese eggplant1 med
- fresh okra8 med
- jalapeño or long green chili1 whole
- fresh spinach or baby bok choy1 large bunch
Method
- 01
Sear the pork in batches to build a savory foundation.
Heat the oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Pat the pork dry and sear until beautifully browned on all sides, about 5 to 7 minutes. Leave the rendered fat in the pot.
- 02
Sweat the aromatics in the rendered pork fat.
Lower the heat to medium. Add the diced onion and quartered tomatoes, sautéing for 3 to 4 minutes. Use a wooden spoon to slightly smash the tomatoes as they soften, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. Stir in the fish sauce and let it bubble for 30 seconds.
- 03
Execute the long simmer using the rice wash.
Return the pork to the pot and pour in the rice wash. Bring to a rolling boil, skimming off any gray foam that rises to the surface to keep the broth clean. Lower the heat, cover, and gently simmer for 45 to 60 minutes until the pork is fork-tender.
- 04
Stagger the root vegetables.
Do not dump all the vegetables in at once. Add the taro and daikon radish first. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. If you prefer a thicker soup, let a piece or two of the taro overcook and mash it into the broth.
- 05
Introduce the souring agent and remaining hearty vegetables.
Stir in the tamarind soup mix until fully dissolved. Add the beans, eggplant, okra, and the whole chili. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 7 minutes until the beans are tender but retain a slight snap.
- 06
Wilt the greens with residual heat to preserve their color.
Taste the broth—it should make your jaw tingle from the sourness. Adjust with more fish sauce if needed. Submerge the spinach or bok choy into the hot liquid, then immediately turn off the heat. Cover and let sit for 2 minutes before serving.
Notes
The Sawsawan Ritual.
Never serve sinigang without a small saucer of fish sauce and a crushed chili pepper on the side. Dipping the tender pieces of pork into this salty, spicy mixture before eating it with your rice is non-negotiable.
From Cook Filipino in America.