Sfinci di San Giuseppe Veloci
(sfin-chee dee san joo-zep-peh veh-loh-chee)
Le Feste: Sicilian-American Holiday Spreads
These aren't all-day pastry projects. Unlike the yeast-heavy dough balls you might find masquerading as sfinci in a strip mall bakery, the genuine article is an airy pasta choux achieved by draining whole-milk ricotta overnight so it mimics the richness of Sicilian sheep's milk, and respecting a two-stage frying process that allows the dough to balloon into a cavernous sponge. Once the dough blisters in 350-degree oil, a heavy pot, a spider skimmer, and a bowl of sweetened ricotta are the only things standing between you and the feast.
Before you start
Drain the ricotta overnight.
Place the ricotta in a fine-mesh strainer set over a deep bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and leave it in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours to extract the excess whey.
Smooth and sweeten the filling.
Discard the liquid, push the drained ricotta through a sieve to eliminate graininess, then fold in the powdered sugar, vanilla, and chocolate chips before returning to the fridge.
Ingredients
- whole-milk ricotta2 lb
- powdered sugar1 1/2 cup
- mini semi-sweet chocolate chips1/2 cup
- pure vanilla extract1 tsp
- water1 cup
- unsalted butter5 tbsp
- kosher salt1/2 tsp
- all-purpose flour1 1/2 cup
- eggs5 large
- vegetable oil2 qt
- unsalted pistachios1/2 cup
- candied orange peel strips1/4 cup
- candied red cherries1/4 cup
Method
- 01
Boil the water, butter, and salt.
In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the water, butter, and salt over medium heat until the butter melts completely and the water reaches a rolling boil.
- 02
Dump in the flour and vigorously stir.
Remove the pan from the heat entirely, add the flour all at once, and beat with a wooden spoon until the shaggy mass comes together.
- 03
Cook out the moisture to form a cohesive dough.
Return the pan to low heat and beat for 2 to 3 minutes until the dough forms a smooth ball that pulls away cleanly from the sides, leaving a slight film on the bottom.
- 04
Cool the dough and emulsify the eggs one at a time.
Transfer the dough to a mixer to cool for 10 minutes, then beat in 4 eggs strictly one at a time until fully absorbed; if the dough isn't thick and heavily elastic, beat in the 5th egg.
- 05
Heat the frying oil to exactly 320°F.
In a Dutch oven, heat at least 3 inches of oil over medium-low heat and attach a deep-fry thermometer, ensuring it doesn't get too hot.
- 06
Drop spoonfuls of dough into the oil to slowly expand.
Using two oiled spoons, slide tablespoon-sized dollops into the oil, frying only 3 or 4 at a time; nudge them gently as they balloon and crackle over the next 8 to 10 minutes.
- 07
Increase the heat to 375°F to crisp the shells.
Once they have quadrupled in size, crank the heat and fry for another 2 to 3 minutes until deeply golden brown, then drain on paper towels and let the oil cool back to 320°F before adding the next batch.
- 08
Split and generously stuff the cooled sfinci.
Slice them partially open like a clam shell, pipe in the cold ricotta cream, and garnish the exposed filling with chopped pistachios, a piece of candied orange peel, a cherry, and powdered sugar.
Notes
The weeknight sugar shortcut.
If prepping ricotta feels too involved for a random Tuesday night, toss the hot, freshly fried sfinci in a brown paper bag with a cup of granulated sugar and a teaspoon of cinnamon, just like the diaspora grandmothers did.
Respect the frying temperatures.
Frying must happen in two stages. If the oil is too hot initially, the exterior will sear shut and trap the steam, resulting in a dense, raw-centered fritter instead of a sprawling sponge.